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Andy135

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Posts posted by Andy135

    Electronics

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    33 minutes ago, JDP said:

    Do you ever experiment with different pallet colours for both traditional down and sidescan ? colour 13 was always my favourite or dark blue on the Lowrance and amber on the sidescan. I found I could adjust the colour gain so that marine growth on the bottom showed as green and where ever I found green there would be fish. On sidescan I adjust so that the front side of objects are almost white and the shadows black, which helps seperate and define objects better. 

    Thats a cracking looking wreck, wish we had some that shallow locally, here they are mostly in 130m+ or on the rocks. 

    On the simrad I like the black background, especially when looking for bait with marlin and tuna feeding on them.

    I'm between boats so I don't have any head units to experiment with, but when I did have them I found the green palette seemed to work best to my eyes. The other colour options just didn't seem to show contrast or definition as clearly.

    Electronics

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, JDP said:

    Is this in feet or metres ? Even if it is metres, its still very shallow water and looks like a pretty weak signal to me, which might just be due to the speed. Do you have any screen shots bellow planing speeds ? Is this a Lowrance or Simrad.

    Metres. Lowrance. Image at below planing below.

    neVIUdv.png

    And a side scan of the same wreck at low speed.

    fdqBhN1.png

    Electronics

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Odyssey said:

    What the clarity like? Did you get much detail on the bottom as well as bait fish high in the water? 
     

    Its looking like a very good solution so far as I can put a sonar hub in and that’ll give me CHiRP functionality with my existing MFDs so hopefully saves me a few £££ and I can put that to the transduxer 

    The shoot-through CHIRP images were always clearer/crisper than the transom-mounted CHIRP I had on Apache and on JG, due to the fact that the shoot-through transducer is upstream of the transom and prop wash, so pretty much zero turbulence or bubbles to interfere with the image.

    Detail was fine for fishing - it was able to pick up a wreck at 18kts. You can see some fish downtide in mid-water on the image below.

    PoovnrY.png

    Electronics

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Odyssey said:

    I’m looking at a through hull transducer https://www.cactusnav.com/simrad-totalscan-thru-hull-transducer-with-medium-high-chirp-p-27181.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJud_qD4ggMV1cLtCh339Qd1EAQYASABEgI4XPD_BwE

    Im on a pod with outboards so stern Mount won’t be useful for me as I’ll be looking to motor at 10-12 knots looking for bird/whale for the tuna before dropping to 6knts when trolling. 
     

    Its the drilling a hole in my hull I’m dreading 😬 I may get it done professionally as it’ll likely need a faring block unless I get it right  on the keel….

    Have you considered a shoot-through transducer instead? I had an Airmar M265 CHIRP one on JG and it was excellent at holding bottom at all speeds with no interference or prop wash. And no holes in the hull.

    https://www.echomasterdirect.co.uk/In_Hull_Transducers

    The M260/265 series is on the steep side, but there are more basic options available that might need your needs.

     

    Live baiting

    in Boat angling techniques, baits and tackle

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Malc said:

    Have been giving it further attempts and last night I thought I had it sussed. I got to the pier as the sun set and set up the rig with half a sprat as bait. This was quickly found by crabs and possibly dabs and stripped, same with the next cast so I changed to mackerel strip but I didn't just leave it hanging off the bend but double hooked it and again using elastic to help keep it on. Once it was dark I started getting whiting rattles and eventually the ratchet screamed and I hit it. No real weight, so back into the rod rest and again a couple of rattles and then the ratchet screamed again and again no real weight so I reeled in and could feel a little kick and find a 3/4lb whiting on the lower hook! It would have to be a decent cod to nobble that but hey-ho it's a learning curve!

    Top marks for perseverance. It always amazes me how small fish can fit big hooks into their gobs.

    Fly-by-wire 60hp outboards?

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, JDP said:

    90's seem to be the lowest over here.

    Why would you want it, do you do lots of constant in out of gear all day ?

    I have both stainless and aluminium props for different styles of boating. With divers in the water, I often run the aluminium as I'm in and out of gear most of the day and the aluminium is far less clunky, in fact its quite smooth with that prop. Also when Im jigging or using soft plastics I use the alu as I use the engine much like with divers.

    My stainless is for long fast runs between a & b.

    I want it because its smoother than a cable shift. But as you say, there don't appear to be any smaller engines available with it 😕.

    Fly-by-wire 60hp outboards?

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Saintly Fish said:

    If your cables are fitted correctly and in good condition they shouldn't have any friction. This was proved to me when I had my throttle cable changed recently, now gone from a full push with the hand to finger tip control. 

    Yeah, but on the sort of tub I'm looking at there will be at least one 90 degree turn. Yours has a much straighter run from helm to throttle linkage.

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