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Andy135

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Everything posted by Andy135

  1. A little bit of reading never harmed anyone. Besides, there are lots of pictures in there too, even ones that move.
  2. Just seen this. As Royals go, I found him endearingly irreverent. Condolences to his family. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-11437314
  3. You lucky sods! 🤣 #wishingIwasfishing
  4. Starting out fishing from your own small boat can be a minefield of things to learn and do. This guide explains the differences between the four types of sonar available to recreational sea anglers and how to select each one depending on intended use. CHIRP sonar CHIRP is the most common type of sonar that all fish-finders will use as a minimum. CHIRP sonar uses a band of frequencies to ping the sea floor and detects the differences in returns between each frequency. The fish-finder uses these returns to build up a more accurate “image” that you see on your screen. Typically using frequencies between 50-200khz, the bottom definition is usually pretty good, and usually good enough to distinguish between rock and muddy sea floors, presence of weed growth etc. The view generated by CHIRP sonar is that of whatever is directly underneath the transducer which is represented as a side-on view on your fishfinder screen. CHIRP is generally effective at all boat speeds but transom-mounted transducers can suffer from image disruption at higher speeds because air bubbles and water turbulence under the transom make it harder for the transducer to send and receive sonar pings. Due to this I find CHIRP to be most effective at higher speeds when using a through-hull or in-hull transducer, where the water flow under the hull is cleanest and as such, turbulence and air bubbles are not an issue. The images above are taken using a through-hull Airmar M260 1kW transducer. Effective depths of operation will vary with frequency – lower frequencies penetrate deeper than higher frequencies but for most UK coastal and offshore fishing any of the available frequencies will work fine. It’s only blue-water fishing in places like the US and Australia where sonar range can become an issue. I tend to use CHIRP sonar when under way at speed and I'll keep an eye on it for any interesting drop offs or structure that I'll then do a slower pass over using down scan to get a higher definition view of what's there. Down scan sonar Down scan sonar uses higher frequencies than CHIRP – typically in the 455-800kHz range – and it’s the higher frequencies that give a higher definition image on your screen. Down scan sonar can distinguish between the various sea floor compositions and is also great at detecting structure (wrecks & wreckage, boulders, pilings and other submerged features). As a general rule, where there is structure there will be small fish, and where there are small fish, there will be bigger fish! The name down-scan is slightly confusing as the image on your fishfinder screen is a side-on view of whatever is under the transducer – best to think of it as scanning down under your boat. I find that down scan sonar tends to work more effectively at slower boat speeds, up to 10-12kts max, and for highest image quality then 3-5kts is best. Down scan sonar transducers are generally only available in transom mount configuration. There are a couple of through hull transducers that I’m aware of but the price of these is prohibitive when a perfectly good transom mount will do the job just fine. The higher frequencies used for down scanning don’t penetrate to the same depths as CHIRP sonar, but again, for the type of fishing we do in the UK this isn’t a problem. Side scan sonar Like down scan, side scan uses the same high frequencies of 455-800kHz but this time the sonar pings are sent out sideways either side of your boat, and the sonar returns are represented on your fishfinder screen as a birds-eye view of the sea floor and water column either side of your boat. This view in particular is great for scouting for sea floor features, wrecks and structure. Most side scan sonar units have ranges of many tens of metres, often 60m or more each side. This means you have the ability to quickly search a swathe of sea floor 120 metres wide to find features that might hold fish. Again, like down scan, slower boat speeds are best for side scan. I find that 3-5kts is perfect to give high quality, clear images of the sea floor. Transom mount transducers are most common for side scan, and I’ve found it important to locate the transducer on the transom in a spot that benefits from clean water coming out from under the hull. Any turbulence or bubbles will quickly degrade the quality of the image that the transducer is able to generate. Also like down scan, the higher frequencies used for side scan sonar don’t penetrate to the same depths as CHIRP sonar, but this hasn’t prevented me from using side scan effectively for locating wrecks in the waters I fish off the south coast of the UK. Live scanning sonar A relatively new offering for recreational sea anglers, live scanning sonar interprets sonar returns in a similar way to hospital ultrasound scanners, presenting a view of the sea floor in real-time. This allows the angler to see his or her lure jigging under the boat and see fish move in to hit the lure in real-time. Various view configurations are possible, from a forward-looking birds-eye view of the sea floor in front of the transducer in wide and narrow configurations to a more traditional side-on presentation of a downward view. This style of sonar was primarily designed with shallow-water lake fishing in mind, but I’ve heard reports from blue water anglers that live scanning technology can be used at impressive depths as well as in the shallows. Take a look at the Lowrance promo video of their Active Target sonar, and the Garmin promo video of their Panoptix Livescope sonar to see what's possible.
  5. Weather looks a bit iffy for us on the south coast so I'll probably give it a miss unless I get the trim tab actuator fixed and can take it out for a shakedown trip round the harbour. What about you lot? @mike farrants, will you be extending your mega-blank this weekend? @Plaicehunter, are you out on the lures? @jonnyswamp, chasing mudpigs in brown soup?
  6. @KennyPowers, the card works with the plotters listed below. If yours isn't listed then it won't work. Lowrance Elite -TI2 Elite - FS HDS Gen 2 HDS Gen 3 HDS Carbon HDS Live Simrad Go XSE Go XSR NSS Evo2 NSS Evo3 NSO Evo2 NSO Evo3 B&G Vulcan Zeus 2 Zeus 3
  7. Well done PH - a very good result for early April I'd say.
  8. I reckon you should do well at Ferry Bridge. Got to be a few big girls waiting for all the small stuff to be washed out of the Fleet.
  9. I believe they're the same but then it seems odd that Orkney went to the effort of rebranding the Coastliner to 440 without some tweaks to justify it. I wonder if they updated the transom to take the 4 strokes that they sold them with under the 440 name. Probably worth a quick call to Orkney to check.
  10. Tohatsu's have a good reputation. There was some badge changing back in the day where they made outboards for other manufacturers and possibly vice versa but the short answer is that a 20hp for your Coastliner will be a good investment. Couple of things to consider... Your transom will be a fair few years old by now and will have been designed for lighter 2 stroke engines. Check the weight of any 4 stroke you intend to put on it and make sure it's not excessively heavier than your current engine. Also worth ensuring your transom is still sound and dry. I had a 20hp Honda on my 440, and I had the electric start plus pull start version. I found having the pull start option comforting in case I ever had a battery failure, so might be worth getting an engine with both starting options "just in case".
  11. 10/10 for effort though 👍
  12. Bloody hell Mike, that's blanking on an epic scale! Even better than me! Did you forget to tie some hooks on??
  13. Nice work Dave! You're bloody dedicated I have to say. It was snowing briefly in Berkshire this morning! Nice results for your efforts too!
  14. No, I just looked at his published prices on his website and compared them with Force4's. Unlikely he'd drop 20% over an email or phone call.
  15. To be fair to Jon, isn't that exactly what you did?? 🤷‍♂️ #justsaying
  16. That's a helpful guide Scott. Thanks. I made my sizing judgement based on what other boats of a similar size and power output were using on the References section of their site. My boat is 26ft. Boats of 26-28ft with more power and in some cases more weight are using 300mm sized interceptors, but I'd be open minded to go bigger. I quite like the look of a pair of their chine interceptors coupled with a pair of straight ones. 🤔
  17. That dealer you messaged me is at least 20% above what Force4 are asking. His quoted prices are more ex VAT than Force 4 are asking inc VAT.
  18. Certainly sounds like they do what they say they can do then. Must admit I'm very seriously considering a 300S interceptor kit... Force 4 have them in stock and if I went with these I'd offset the expense against the replacement Lenco ram and switch panel that I need to buy anyway 🤔🤔
  19. Ooh, ooh! @Geoff, have a word would you? He's clearly not been paying attention in class... AGAIN! 🙄🤣
  20. Keep it up, you're doing great! 🤣🤣👍 PS: all the best ones are in his black book 😉
  21. Anyone been on a boat with these fitted? Curious to hear any feedback, good or bad, in particular in respect of the automatic Active Roll Control system. http://www.zipwake.com/
  22. Yes, a pupfish photo would have been most welcome! 🤣 Well done on your plaice. Sounds like you were part of a select few to have caught one. The ECA fished their plaice comp yesterday: 14 boats entered but only 3 plaice boated.
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