Andy135

More than 8kts top speed 🤭

P.S. that mackerel pic 🤣🤣

Looking forward to seeing what the next year brings for you and Pugwash Mike 👍👍

Good work Leon - you've really taken the club from strength to strength. I remember hearing about when you first set it up and were wondering if anyone would join. Kudos to you sir! 👍

TBH I'm pretty close to just swapping out the R/R and calling it done. Best case is that I find the 10 year old unit still works... but for how long? There is value in peace of mind.

Should do - they're all part of the Navico Group and are basically the same hardware in different external casings.

Didn't watch it but read about how it unfolded. Can't have one rule for Max and another for Lewis - got to be consistent. Will be interesting to see how this play out with the appeal and what comes after.

I wouldn't call them happy Jon; most of your team are injured or sick.

Yes, I hedged and kept Lloris in my starting line up, knowing that an auto-sub would switch him out if he didn't play, so Krul gave me 3 points in the end. Let's see how Spurs get on this week. I've added Guehi and Dennis to my team as I had some underperformers that had to go. Gallager had a flying week last week. Very impressive.

Strong gameweek for @mike farrants. 75 points no less! 👍

Not me. Got down to the boat but was working on the charging system instead of fishing.

Well, to be fair we both missed it during the first inspection. I've quizzed him on why it would have been disconnected and he's suggested the same as @GPSguru and @suzook12, that the R/R isn't regulating the volts to the House circuit any more. A quick "fix" by a previous owner would have been to disconnect it instead of replacing it.

Normal service has been resumed I see... 🤣

The earth strap eye looked very fresh, and I don't remember it looking like it had witness marks on it from being previously fastened, which leads me to suspect it's been missed at the factory. It was tucked away behind the main engine earth strap that you can see in the picture - I moved it out in order to take the photo. As for being removed for other engine work, I can't think of any other work that would require the R/R's to be removed.

Good to know. Will keep an eye out.

This is my concern - that a previous owner disconnected the House R/R because it cooked a battery. Next time I'm out I'll test the battery at the pontoon. I have a throttle-only setting on the helm, so I can disengage the gearbox then set the RPM's to whatever I choose and test the voltage at the battery single-handedly while stationary. If I see more than 14v at the battery I'll switch out the old R/R for the new one.

I've already had the same thoughts. Might keep hold of the new R/R until I've done a few NM and given her a shakedown. 🤔

I tend to leave mine in auto and use it to find bottom features which attract fish. In the UK there aren't the large shoals of fish that you get over there, so I wouldn't necessarily expect to see fish. However I will give the manual settings another fiddle to see if I can take some better screenshots.

My Suzuki DF300 outboard has two regulator/rectifiers that provide the ability to charge both the house and start batteries. On Jersey Girl the house battery wasn't getting charged, despite having the optional sub-loom and 30A fuse to provide power to the battery. My marine engineer took a look and suggested a replacement regulator/rectifier assembly (which comes from Suzuki Germany at nearly £400). Eventually it arrived and he forwarded it on to me for fitting. Upon lifting the engine cowling to take pictures of the old unit in place as a guide for fitting the new one, I happened to notice this... The earth lead from one of the R/R units was disconnected! How was this missed? I wonder if this has been disconnected since the factory, as I can't see why a previous owner would have had a need to remove it. A quick twiddle with a 12mm spanner was all it took to refit it. I fired the engine up on muffs and checked the voltage at one of the MFD's. 12.1v with engine off and 14v with engine running. So this tells me that the House circuit is now being charged. Success! So I will be sending back the unused R/R assembly... 🤦‍♂️

Here's a guide to getting the best out of sidescan transducers 😉 https://www.offshoreoutlaws.co.uk/articles.html/articles/sea-floor-imaging-with-side-scan-transducers-r3/

NSE seems to be the pro version of the NSS, and as such may be compatible with the TotalScan. Googling has proved inconclusive but if you do need a sounder module as well as a transducer then you're relegated to older kit e.g. LSS 1 or 2 that will give you first gen sidescan. I sold an LSS 1 module and 'ducer to @suzook12 a while back, so maybe if you sweet-talk him a deal could be done? Otherwise it's ebay I'm afraid. Or buy a small screen version of the latest Lowrance HDS or Simrad equivalent that will take the sidescan transducer natively and use an ethernet connection to push the transducer data to your NSE.

Do you mean sidescan? Or true StructureScan 3D mapping of the sea floor? If the latter it won't be cheap (north of £1k). If the former then the TotalScan is the base model sidescan 'ducer that will get you side scanning and has the temp sensor. https://www.echomasterdirect.co.uk/TotalScan™_Transom_Mount_Transducer The Active Imaging 3 in 1 ducer is the next step up in imaging quality but is more expensive. https://www.lowrance.com/en-gb/lowrance/type/sonar-transducers/activeimaging-3-in-1-transducer/ There is also the Tripleshot transducer that is much cheaper but I have a feeling it only works with the Lowrance Hook head unit. I've found that the longer sidescan transducers don't pick up well at high speeds - I use my Active Imaging 'ducer at less than 5kts for best image quality and it seems to lose bottom at over 12-15kts due to hull turbulence. I have a shoot through Airmar for regular CHIRP and depth sounding at speed, so recommend you keep your regular sounder if it works at speed and run the sidescan as a second ducer for low speed only. Edited to say that the prices of these transducers seem to have gone up (of course 🙄). They were comfortably less than £300 about 18 months ago, so don't delay in case they rise again.

Deadpool?

Go solo! You can do it. Good to build confidence if nothing else👍

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