daio web

very nice 

hope the weather plays ball mate its always the same boat going good and rubbish weather

Cheers. She's the boat I've owned the longest. 3 seasons now. 
Got all the anti foul finished today. All anodes fitted. The Grp grazing repair is under way also and should be finished mid next week. Then following Monday, back in the drink and off for some plaice!! 

nice boat mate  fair play 

I'm having a proper polish job done this time not a wise boy chancer waving a mop at it then declaring a done job. 
Ive not done anything yet apart from collect the anodes etc in readiness. 
I plan to get down this weekend (Sunday morning) and do a couple of hours. 
I used some white grease on the prop and shaft last season, not sure really if it had a benefit though. 

I would go as you are, it's worked so far.
As for engine alignment, before you move anything. Mark some datums on the hull and measure it all up, so when it goes back you are as close as can be before trying to align. There are some fairly cheap tools that can help you out as well, such as an inclinometer, digital ones of these can be had fairly cheaply. Laser lines are just posh string lines, string is cheap......

Seems a bit of a faff Jon just to paint. Why not just clean and use a long roller? Or don't bother. 

You would miss the ballast of all those 10mm sockets!!
 

Nothing to dread about fibreglass work - just common sense really. Just ensure that every thing is clean, dry and well abraided. Bonding in and glassing over a new stringer should be no problem, or do you mean to replace the engine bearers? If you do remove the engine it will give you the chance to properly inspect the bearers and check out and clean the bilge which is bound to be a bit mucky under the engine. It is also worth flow coating your new glasswork and any other areas that need it. Getting the engine re-aligned is another matter, bur out should not be too difficult. Good luck. Geoff.

Well a mate of mine had one of his engine mounts break whilst under way. So the engine was lifted and mounts replaced etc. when they put the engine back in they used feeler gauges and it was off by a couple of mm. It caused terrible vibration through the shaft, so much so that he had to get it laser aligned. Never been a problem since. 

I hope you will get the engine laser aligned. Just a mm or two out and you'll have problems. 

It sounds like the sort of job where you'd want as much working room as possible, which would steer me to taking the engine right out. If you left the engine in but lifted wouldn't it have to remain lifted while the glass hardened?

welcome aboard stuart  

welcome aboard stuart  

Tbh, I'd be inclined to leave it where it was, I'd rather have stability over fuel economy. The saving on fuel will not be noticed.  

yeah i will do butt  its a very heavy boat anyway i bet the boat must weigh 3 our 4 tonns  updates to follow

i don't think mine has any - but i havent checked everywhere - she does roll a bit when side on tot eh swell - but sits lovely under way!

I remember the boat we used to go out on (Ellen B), an ex RNLI boat, carried over 4 tonne of ballast. When coding renewals were due, they made the skipper remove it all. Was never the same after that. Originally, the rougher it got, the more stable the boat got......
 

I think maybe you should put some pictures up on the "show us yer boat" thread. Then we can all look and admire. 

I use a wake board ballast bag to help mine sit down at the stern/up at the bow. My hull is designed to run bow up, so she likes a bit of weight in the stern.
Agree with @Saintly Fish on relocating existing weight first before adding any. I run two house batteries and a start battery, and I deliberately positioned the second house battery to the starboard side to give better side-to-side weight distribution.

It's not a joke mate. My point is, if your going to add weight then should the unthinkable ever happen, then having negative weight ballast could quite possibly buy you precious minutes to organise and abandon ship. 
Bags of water are very heavy, until put in water where the weight will be neutral. 
You could start with a few 20ltr plastic canisters. And when you find the correct weight required and position of said weight, then replace the canisters with a bag. 

well done buddy at least you got out shame the cod dident play ball well you got to be in it to win it  best of luck for next time

well done buddy at least you got out shame the cod dident play ball well you got to be in it to win it  best of luck for next time

You really shouldn't need to. Try distributing weight already on the boat a bit better first. If not, then wakeboarding water ballast bags would do the job. Better than lead shot as water is neutral weight should you start to sink. 

What weather app do you use? XCWeather is a good reliable source.