Geoff

Slow Pitch Jigging Explained
In this article, Terry Smith of Jigabite.co.uk takes us through the art of slow pitch jigging for UK species.
Originating in Japan some years ago, the facet of Slow Pitch Jigging (SPJ) has rapidly spread throughout the world, including here in the UK. Although the more traditional speed jigging can be an amazingly effective method of catching fish, there are times when it`s more effective to present the lure in a different way to invite the bite.
Often fish chose to take a more leisurely approach at mealtimes, not always willing to chase a speeding prey but instead more content to laze around in wait of an easier prize; some demersal fish feed this way naturally and most of our UK cold water species certainly feed the same due to their lower body metabolism. In a nut shell, speed jigs represent a fleeing baitfish whereas a slow jig presented correctly will imitate all the signs of an injured or dying baitfish, a much easier meal.
So SPJ is all about getting the lure to dance and flutter longer in the strike zone and the easiest way to do this is by using a specifically designed set up. From the rods to the hooks I will attempt to give you my interpretation of slow jigging by giving you a breakdown of the specific tackle required to make this method effective.
 
Slow Pitch Jigs

Above; some of the very best Japanese jigs on the market
The various shapes and styles of vertical jigs are created to impart different actions but in short they are designed to drop fast and be worked with a quick retrieve, generalising I know but I don’t want to get too bogged down here talking about these more familiar jigs.
To just simply slow down our jigging technique most vertical jigs would remain fairly static in the water which is not exactly inviting to a predatory fish so the Jig design as well as the technique needed to be changed.
The first thing to notice is that slow jigs are deliberately more centre-balanced and flatter on one side than the other to generate a much more erratic action and eliminate the need to be speeding through the water column in order to attract a fish. Instead the jigs design demands a lot less effort from the angler to be effective in the water though this is not to say that there is no technique required, quite the contrary and I will talk about this later.

Above left; A selection of high end hand made Jigs from Japan.  Above right; Myself learning SPJ from the master, Andreas De Nardo
Slow jigs fall into two categories, slow jerk and high fall with a few hybrids also available. Slow jigs are shorter and often wider when compared to fall designs that are more likely to be longer and slimmer. Most of our UK fishing requires slow jigs that are designed to slide and flutter using a slow pitch method. The high fall method and jigs are mainly for deeper water of stronger currents.
There are plenty of different shapes and designs available from the many jig manufactures all falling under the banner of “slow jigging”; it’s a case of understanding how each individual jig performs and adjusting your technique to suit.
The more erratic action of a slow jig will sometimes cause it to become suspended in the water, sinking slowly as it flutters sending out the signals similar to that of an injured baitfish; this is often when a predator will strike so remain alert and try to keep in touch with whatever is happening at the business end.
Vertical jigging demands an aggressive approach to get the jig moving through the water as fast as you can while slow jigging has a lot more finesse and is more about feeling and reading how the jig is working. This is why the tackle used for each style has been so carefully refined to suit each method.
 
Slow Jigging rods

Slow pitch rods are extremely light, very thin and generally around six feet to 6 feet 8”in length. Despite this they are remarkably strong but it is important to understand that the rod is designed and balanced to work the jig and NOT so much to fight the fish.
The rods have a full slow taper that make them feel soft all the way through the blank and most are constructed from high end Toray carbon for lightness and strength. This design is specific for working slow jigs correctly and whilst you may catch fish jigging with other rod types you are certainly not optimising your efforts. For slow jigs to perform correctly the rod should be matched specifically to the jig weights you will be using. A slow pitch rod rated to 120g will not impart the correct action onto a 200g jig, sounds obvious but it is more critical that one would think with this style of jigging.
When playing a larger fish most of the fight is played relying on the drag from the reel. This allows us to use such delicately light rods. Naturally a heavier rated rod will have more backbone than a lighter rating so in some instances it will be possible to let the rod take some of the strain. Manufacturers state power and jig ratings differently from each other but generally most UK fishing falls between a Power 2 or 3 rating. Please contact me if you would like conformation based upon your specific fishing conditions. The whole concept of rod design and blank construction is delicately matched for the best performance and I would strongly recommend purchasing from one of the many companies that specialise in this style of fishing.
Where I have stated that these rods are very strong , I am referring to their abilities to work a jig and play a fish. Its important to realise that the high carbon content used to keep them light can also be delicate and these rods do NOT take kindly to knocks so treat with care. Under no circumstances should you high-stick your rod as this can easily end badly.
 
Reels

The Rage Reels from Maxel have to be some of the finest on the market today.
The preferred Reels for Slow Jigging are without doubt overhead reels; they allow you more instant jig control especially when the jig is on the drop or static which is often when a fish will strike. Slow jigging can still be performed using a spinning reel but it is much more difficult to maintain direct contact with the jig at all times.
There are many purposely designed SPJ reels on the market that are up to the job but try to chose a narrow spool version and fast retrieve 6.0:1 minimum if possible. The narrow spools with larger diameter also assist the line lay and increase the amount of line retrieved per handle revolution. Match the lightness of the rod to a small reel but ensure it has a sufficiently strong smooth drag system remembering the demands of the reel when playing a fish. Most SPJ reels are ergonomically designed and sit low in the reel seat. The line then comfortably meets the first guide making it easier to level the line on the retrieve.
 
Line

Chose a quality braid like the YGK Varagass Fune.
This is where a lot of people compromise, when they shouldn’t! When using such delicate sensitive rods it is imperative that you remain in direct contact with the jig to feel for its every movement and ensure it is performing correctly.
Slow jigging demands a high quality low PE diameter rated braid, preferably X8 Strand and PE1.0 to PE2.0 for the UK. At this point I’m not going to go into the vast complexities regarding braids nor am I about to enter the mind boggling world that is PE. Needless to say any quality 8 strand braid will do the job; again I prefer the known Japanese brands that are proven quality such as the YGK Varagass Fune. This very low diameter will cut through the water much easier than a standard 4 strand which helps to keep the near vertical line that is required for the jig to act correctly. I`ve seen overseas reports of Amberjacks to 30kgs and Dog Tooth Tuna to over 40kgs being caught using slow jigging tackle on light PE line 20 to 30lbs. If you are unfortunate to have a powerful fish dive back to the reef or wreck structure then we have to accept this could be game over but weigh this up against an increased strike rate using a thinner line and I know where I stand.
 
Hooks

Match the assist hooks to the jig as well as the target species.
The Japanese prefer to fix a twin assist hook to either end of the jig as this can sometimes help the way the jig performs but my recommendation would be to simply use just one twin assist fixed to the top of the jig. See setup image below. This will reduce the amount of foul hooked fish and the likelihood of snagging the bottom or structure (especially for UK fishing).
Slow jigs are most effective in freefall when their design allows them to act erratically so try not to restrict this movement by adding swivels etc. Keep it light and simple.
It’s also important to use assist hooks rigged with strong but very fine assist cord as this allows the freedom of hook movement that improves the hook-up rating. Choose from the many purposely designed SPJ assist hooks available or tailor your own to suit. Most common sizes sizes; 1/0 and 2/0 but up to 6/0 for larger species.
 
The Set Up

A split ring (size 4 to 6) connects both the assists hooks and the jig to a solid ring (size 5 or 6) that is tied onto a short leader. A jig wrap secures the jig set up whilst in transit or between marks. Useful for making sure the rod blank doesn't get knocked by the jig. See below;

 
Jigging Technique
Where do I start? I suppose you firstly need to dismiss any of your vertical jigging techniques and think more about how to get the jig to do the work for you. The Slow Jerk technique is broken down into a “pitch”, being one lift of the rod from the five o’clock position up to the two o’clock position where you then hold and wait for the load in rod to rebound back to normal. This is why it is important to match the rod to the jig weight.
During this pitch you can vary your action to include anything from a quarter turn to a full rotation of the reel handle; you can also change the speed at which this is done and sometimes extend the lift. All of the time it is important to feel for how the jig is performing and remember different jig designs will react in different ways. Once the rod has returned to its park position, drop back to five o’clock and after a short delay, start the pitch again. By varying the speed and sequence of the pitch you will find out which method suits you; just ensure the jig is allowed to fall freely. Different jig designs dictate how they move in free fall so take a good look at how your jig reacts at the surface when you allow it to fall of its own accord and adjust your rod action to suit.
At this point it’s important to mention that the jig will only perform from as near vertical line as possible. A large loop of line from rod to jig will result in very little jig action as your rod pitch is simply taking up the slack in the line. Hence the need for low diameter braid. When currents make it hard to stay vertical or if fishing in deeper water it is often necessary to use a different technique known as “High Fall”. The longer (6`8") rods are recommended to achieve a much higher and more aggressive pitch. The aim is to impart a strong outward sweep of the rod to drive the jig through the water. By lowering the rod the jig will freefall and flutter often inducing a strike at this moment. High Pitch Jigs are specifically designed for this style of jigging.
 
To Summarise:
I know that I have merely skimmed the surface of slow jigging here but my aim is to try and simplify some of the basics without going too deeply into the complexities. This technique can be highly effective and is already popular in a lot of other European countries where it provides a useful alternative especially at times when the fish are not so active.
It is tailor made for UK waters because most of our resident fish are not aggressive feeders when compared to their warm water cousins, preferring instead to feed on easier slow moving prey. It's important to realise that sea and weather conditions play a large part to the success of SPJ so be sure to pick the smaller tides with less current. Slack water when most other methods are less effective is often the time to try SPJ. It is also a lot of fun and a pleasurable way to fish because of the refined light tackle requirements - just look how LRF has impacted Light Spinning.
Please feel free to contact me if you require any further assistance. Terry Smith. www.jigabite.co.uk.

How to make your own shark rigs - a step by step guide.
By OdysseyAngling
 
One of the most important parts of your shark gear is the rig. This is a quick guide on how I make my rigs predominantly for blue shark fishing. Blue sharks are perhaps the most common of the sharks that are targeted. The basic rig construction can also be used for porbeagle fishing too. There are a few other tricks and tips that you can incorporate into your rigs which are helpful for solo sharking, but I have fished solo with this style of rig.
Shopping List:
49 Strand wire. This is 7x7 strands wound together. It gives good flexibility and strength. I tend to use 1.5mm wire. You can go lighter but where I fish in the Celtic Deeps you never know what lurking and if I were to encounter a Mako I wouldn’t want it to get away! Double barrel crimps Good quality hooks: I use a 10/0 circle hook. You don’t need to be using 16/0 hooks more suited for hunting great white sharks. You need to match the hook to the bait. This size works well when lip hooking mackerel or squid for sharks. Its plenty strong enough to land nearly anything in the British Isles. Swivels: You can use ball bearing swivels or crane swivels. Personally, I use crane swivels and I have not had any issues. Correct tools: you will need a good quality pair of cutters. You want a nice clean cut of the wire to make it easier to thread through your crimps. In addition, you need a crimp tool designed for double barrel crimps. There are plenty of tackle suppliers out there - it’s your choice. However, don’t scrimp on cheap hooks, you will get found out in the latter stages of the fight when you are trying to leader your fish!
I follow the KISS principle with my shark fishing. Keep It Simple Stupid! The more components that are added to the system the more points of failure. Here's my step by step guide to making shark rigs.  There are other ways you can do it but this works for me.  My main motto is keep it simple. The more links, joins, snaps etc the more points to fail....
 
Step 1: choose a good hook. Perhaps the most important part.... you’re not catching a whale so leave the harpoons at home. This is 10/0 circle hook.

 
Step 2: Flemish loop part 1 - thread the line through the eye of the hook again, to form two passes, as shown in the picture below:

 
Step 3: Flemish Loop part 2 - feed the end of the wire back through the loop that you have formed twice, looping it back on itself so that it looks like the picture below:

 
Step 4: Crimping Flemish loop: Next we need to add two double barrel crimps to stop the wire from moving. The idea of using a Flemish loop is that if your crimps slip, the wire will pull into a know and the hook cannot come off. I use two crimps for safety, you can use one but two gives added strength. Your hook should now look like the below:

 
Step 5: Once you have trimmed the wire back to leave a small tag we complete the process again, this time we connect a swivel. The distance between the hook and the swivel needs to be about 4ft long. Its not an exact science only a guideline. Again, we’re using the double crimped Flemish loop. 

 
Step 6: Rubbing leader. Blue sharks have a tendency to roll up your trace in a fight. They also have rough skin so unless you have a wire or thick mono rubbing leader you are likely to lose most fish that you hook. We repeat the Flemish loop and crimping process to the other end of the swivel. Finished product should look like the below:

 
Step 7: Weight attachment. You can skip this step if you wish however, I recommend that you don’t. I like to add weight to my trace to keep the bait down to the desired depth. I like to be able to vary the weight that I add to the rig depending on, how fast I am drifting, the depth I am fishing at, size of bait. If I am fishing deep on a fast drift I will want maybe 8oz of lead. If I am free lining a mackerel off the back of the boat with little/no drift I won’t want any lead at all. The lead attachment is a simple American snap swivel along the same principles as a running ledger. As this swivel is not taking much weight you can use whatever weight link you have.

 
Step 8: Top trace swivel. Using the same method as before with the Flemish loop add a swivel to about 15ft of wire. That then is your rubbing leader complete!
 
 
There are a few ways to attach this to your mainline. I prefer to attach the rig directly to my mainline using a double turn Palomar knot or using a Aussie Twist swivel. Its personal preference but I don’t use snap links. If you apply enough pressure these can pop open. I have had this happen to me once, fortunately the line was kept tight so that the fish could not get away. Its your choice but with the Aussie Twist you won’t suffer this problem.

 
Add a mackerel, suspend at desired depth under a float, sit back and enjoy the smell of your chum sack over the side and wait for your reel to scream 🙂 

Over the years it's fair to say that I have had my fair share of boats. In fact at the last count it was eight boats in approximately ten years. Give or take a month or two.
 I’ve bought and sold quite a few in a relatively short space of time, and, apart from the man maths and upgrades carried out, I’ve not lost too much money over the period I have owned each one.
There are interesting stories (to me) with every boat I have owned, maybe I will write about them some day. But for now, here’s what I believe are the most key elements about purchasing boats. It’s not an exhaustive list and others may have differing opinions, and that’s ok - this is what has worked for me.
 
Firstly (and most importantly) is... Budget.
Exactly how much can you afford to waste? I use the word ‘waste’ only because with boats you ‘re never going to get much of a return on your investment. So, you must be prepared to throw away a certain amount of coin. Now, what costs have you thought about in your budget? Of course, there is the cost of the boat. How about storage or mooring costs, maintenance costs, safety equipment purchasing and upkeep. What about motor servicing, anti-fouling, electricity bills if you use a marina with shore power. Or even slip way fees and harbour dues.
Try to make a comprehensive list, research the prices for each item, total them all up and then add another 20% just to be sure.
Don’t forget, apart from purchasing the boat, the other costs are annual.
 
Second is ‘requirements’ or ‘intended use’
What do you want from your boat, how do you envisage using it and with how many passengers?
Will you be fishing, overnighting, day tripping or just using it to tow toys and entertain? Or ALL of the afore mentioned? Do you have kids, a dog maybe or just a few mates that want to go have some fun at your expense?
The point is, however big you think you’re going to need, go bigger. I would say that on average 50-60% of first-time boat owners decide they are going to upgrade within the first 2 or 3 trips out.
A 20ft boat can seem really small really quick with 5 grown men on board. If you don’t do the go large thing, and want to upgrade, then go back to the budget checker.
 
Thirdly, mooring and storage.
Heavily linked to the budget this one.  Do you wish to tow your boat and keep it on the drive? Is your driveway flat? (another story for later), have you any experience of towing or do you, like me see towing as a bit of a faf?  I’ve tried it and hated it. Towing is by far the cheapest option for storage, but in most marinas mooring gives 24-hour access to the water. You are unlikely to be restricted by tide, and you don’t have to wait in line at the slipway whilst all the jet skis do their thing. But it is the most expensive. Again, do your research and cost out annual mooring or dry stack fees.
 
Research, research and yet more research.
In my mind this is probably THE most important element to buying a boat. If like me, you love speed and adrenalin, but the wife doesn’t, don’t buy a twin engine 4 tonne speed machine. Unless you want to end up selling it 4 months later because your dear wife flat refuses to go on it. What you find fun, the family may not. However, if you don’t intend to take the family out for fun days and bonding time in the sun, well go for it. But be aware, that once the Mrs and kids realise that you are spending more time with your mistress (the boat) than them, you may find you have company and a need to change your boat.
Decided on your way forward? Good. Now what manufacturer and model do you require, or lust after. Will it be suitable for the conditions of the area you live in? Will it get you quickly and safely to that far flung wreck that you love to photograph with your side-scan sonar; will it allow you and a couple of mates to fish comfortably, or my most important consideration, ‘can I take it out safely on my own’?
There are so many variables to consider, choose wisely or choose again soon.
Once you have decided on the boat for you, then do even MORE RESEARCH. Find out the boat’s characteristics, its flaws and weaknesses. What’s its top-rated engine size, what is its hull rating category, how many people can you safely have aboard. All this knowledge and learning will help you when you come to view the boat you’d like to buy.
 
Next up is the viewing.

Don’t be lazy, be prepared to travel for the right boat. Don’t buy a boat because it's local.
Brokers and private sellers will (with exceptions) lie through their back teeth to get that sale or commission. If you’re a bit savvy and you know a fair deal of information about the boat you plan to view, then you’ll be able to pick a porky teller from a genuine seller. Never be afraid to ask questions and never feel like you are asking stupid questions. If the seller can’t answer the questions you pose, insist on a follow up call later that day with the answer.
Check the paper work for the boat if it's available to view. Look in every single nook and cranny that you possibly can, you never know what may be hiding. Don't be rushed by a seller. Any genuine owner or agent will be happy to spend quality time with you and discuss all the issues you may want to discuss. If you're rushed off a boat and given excuses then if it were me, I would walk and find another. Never ever rush to buy a boat, never ever buy the first boat you look at (unless it’s an absolute peach).
Ok, so you’ve seen a few, picked the best example and you’re in love. In your mind the season is quickly passing you by, even though it's only February. Don’t get emotional over a deal. You know what you want to spend, now try to keep to that budget. Going to make an offer? Great, start with around 20% off the asking price. So, for a £10,000 boat offer £8,000. What have you got to lose?
They can either say YES or NO. If they say no, then ask what they would be happy to accept. Now the fun begins. Remember, a boat is only worth what a buyer is willing to pay. Hold your nerve. If you have a cash deposit with you, show it to them. In their mind they will know you’re not just a fender kicker and the sight of freshly pressed £20 notes is irresistible. Strike a deal (based on a sea trial and FULL marine survey), but never pay more than you can afford to waste.
So, you have bought a boat!!
 Or at least struck a deal and shaken hands. Get a receipt for your deposit and make sure the seller writes on it that the deposit is returnable if the sea trial or survey take a nose dive.
Surveys and sea trials – the good, the bad and the ugly.

Do not scrimp on this aspect of the purchase. One piece of advice is this… most surveyors in the local area will have visited the marina or yard that you're  buying from (unless private) and will more than likely know the agent/vendor, maybe not intimately but they will have met and said hello on a friendly basis. Some will be very good mates. Be aware, I always look for a surveyor who lives 50-100 miles away from the boat's location. This minimises the risk and makes sure the surveyor is working for you and not the seller. You should have a full survey; mechanical, electrical and structural. Remember that nook you couldn’t see into? If there's a problem in there and the surveyor doesn’t pick up on it, you have comeback. Now go take the craft for a sea trial. If possible do it with an independent marine engineer, or the surveyor if he is fully qualified to do so properly.

You’d need to use this opportunity to test all the onboard electronics. Does the chart plotter work? Can the transducer find the seabed when underway and at rest? Also make sure all gauges are checked for correct operation, your engineer should do this naturally, but it doesn’t help to have a look yourself. Raise any questions you may find you have. If fitted, do the trim tabs work? Does the windlass operate properly? How does the boat ride? Does she list when under way? A listing boat could indicate that a trim ram is malfunctioning, even if the gauge (or digital display) reads ok.
Call up the coast guard on the VHF, just to check the radio works. Once you're happy return to port.
Don’t forget, you are parting with a lot of your own hard-earned cash, so don’t be scared to satisfy all your own questions.
Happy with your survey? Enjoyed the sea trial? Good. Any points of concern? Yes? Well address them now. Make them part of the deal; get them done to your satisfaction as part of the renegotiated deal post survey. Don’t forget, your deposit was with clauses.

Once you have dotted all the I’s and crossed all the T’s, enjoy your boat!
Until the next one catches your eye. And it will... believe me, I know.