WiFishing

Hi does anybody know if you can use a 3 pin Honda transducer on an Hondex echo sounder with a 5 pin connector. If it can does anybody have wiring diagram. Cheers.

Hi, can Hondex transducers cables be extended using three core wire or is it co-ax?

Hi, I will sort out a power supply and check out the display settings. If it is the 2nd possibility, is that fixable easily or is it get it to a service agent to repair? Thanks.

The display is marked as manufactured 2006 so could just be old age. Thanks

Hi I have been asked about a problem with a Koden Radar. It is losing definition on all ranges. Larger targets like ships and large land masses can be seen but smaller targets just not seen. Unfortunately it has been removed from the vessel so testing a bit awkward. Really looking to see if anybody has come across this type of fault and whether it is fixable through straight forward replacement of scanner or components. Thanks

Update. Managed to get onto the boat. Found the vessel speed was set to 0kts in the CVS-126. Changed this up to the maximum of 10kts and now the Sounder works up to this vessel speed. The previous sounder the Koden CVS-832 but this model has no vessel speed setting and worked up to the vessels fastest speed probably about 17kts.

Yes, it is bonded inside the hull. Cheers

Thanks guys. The transducer is hull mounted and there wasn't a problem at speed before. Its a 6.2 Cheetah cat with aluminium pods. Cheers

Hi Sorry for the delay in responding. Sounder is a Koden CVS-126. It has replaced a Koden CVS-832. The transducer is the original from the 832. It is a three wire transducer and works fine at slow speeds but at higher speeds above 7kts the screen just blanks. Sorry I don't have more info. It's a friends boat and I haven't been able to get onboard yet. Cheers

A quick query on a dual frequency echosounder. Will connecting the 50kHz and 200kHz wires round the wrong way cause damage? Cheers

Have to admit it is not my boat just doing it for a friend.

Ooops didn't realise pics would be so big.

Are you spying on me was typing up as you sent message? 🙂

Hi It's been a while but finally got round to changing the motor on Honda BF40 tilt unit. Things didn't quite go to plan though. It was not possible to get the engine off the boat or even get it on a slip so the whole operation had to be done between tides. The original plan was to take the bolts out of the port side of the transom clamp. Wind back the port side nut on the tilt tube and slide the port side of the bracket along, enough to spread the transom brackets far enough to get the bottom pin out of the tilt unit. First problem was the tilt tube was extremely rusted. After a good bit of wire brushing and liberal application of WD40 the nut was eventually wound out to the end of the thread. The port bolts holding bracket to the outboard pod were removed. Forgot to say the boat is a Cheetah Cat with outboard pods fitted. The bottom bolt through the tilt unit was taken out and the transom bracket anode which is bolted across the bottom between both sides taken off. The pin holding the top of the tilt ram removed and the ram closed. Then it started to go wrong. The port side of the bracket could not be moved. We could not even get a screwdriver hammered in between the transom bracket and the outboard bracket on the tilt tube. Absolutely solid. No idea why this is a steel tube instead of stainless. Next attack was to put a large G-cramp on the transom bracket to the side of the outboard pod. The bracket was put on as high up as we could get it just below the hole in the bracket where the wires pass through. There is a web of reinforcing there, any lower and the bracket looks to slender to put pressure on. The intention was to tighten the cramp into place, get tension on with it and try to split the transom bracket from the outboard bracket with screwdriver then. This didn't happen. During the gentle taps on the screwdriver, no small chisel available. The G-cramp jumped off and we noticed the bracket jumped back into place. Next attack was to put the G-cramp back on and slowly take up tension on it. At the same time, wiggling the bottom of the tilt unit. The cramp was increased in tiny increments and eventually it was wide enough to get the bottom of the unit out. There is a short tube inside the bottom that extends about 10mm into either side of the brackets which is why the brackets have to be spread to remove the unit. We carried on with the port side bracket but would have been better trying to move the starboard side bracket as the trim sensor is on the port side. Once out the whole unit was taken up to the shed and clamped upright in the vice. Four screws holding motor on taken out and motor pulled out and replaced. Slight encouragement was needed with screwdriver/chisel for the motor to lift once screws taken out. We did not drain the unit as we held it upright in vice but if not able to do like this the unit would need the oil drained out before taking motor off. O-ring greased, motor lined up and screwed down into place. Replacing unit relatively simple, connected up first to check if unit now working, which it was. So unit and lower tube through it with spacer slid into place and G-cramp very slowly eased making sure every thing was in line. Eventually remove clamp. Quick check and bracket mounting bolt holes still lined up after everything. So bottom bolt and top pin fitted and unit tried raised and lowered ok. Anode refitted, transom bolts refitted wiring tidied, tilt tube nuts tightened up and happy days. First time we tried the new motor it was quite noisy and slightly erratic. When we had it in place the oil fill cover was cracked and a small bit of oil and air let out. Next time tilt was tried it was quiet and fine. I have to say I do not recommend using this method. We were lucky the tilt tube only flexed and did not bend permanently. Our next move would probably have been to get engine off and build some kind of puller to either pull or press the tilt tube out after cutting it either side of the transom bracket and between the outboard bracket. Alternatively once cut put hacksaw blade through the inside and cut carefully to the brackets. Lesson learned, get somebody else to change tilt motor. Nah just kidding. Keeping the tilt tube oiled and greased. There are grease nipples on the outboard half of the bracket but not where the steel tube goes through the aluminum alloy transom bracket. Pictures are the Bottom bolt holding the bottom of the Tilt unit through the transom brackets. Top pin held with circlips holding the top of the ram to the outboard bracket. The G-Cramp doing it's stuff. The anode from below bolted across the transom bolts. Sorry not better and more pics but when things started to go pear shaped kinda got forgotten.

Thanks guys, done all the checks, connections look good, fluids fine, cables no signs of damage. Looks like I am going for new motor. Should get it by weekend. Hoping I can get it changed without having to take engine off. Cheers