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WiFishing

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    Koden Radar Losing Definition

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    On 8/31/2022 at 10:32 PM, GPSguru said:

    Koden is good kit and generally used on commercial boats.

    There are 2 distinct possibilities,

    1. Somebody has reduced the sensitivity (finger trouble), or

    2. There is a fault in the Raydome which is allowing a wider beam (the width is the beam determines the object sensitivity). The same theory applies if you dont have a Raydome, just an open antenna.

    Hi, I will sort out a power supply and check out the display settings. If it is the 2nd possibility, is that fixable easily or is it get it to a service agent to repair? Thanks.

    Koden Radar Losing Definition

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    On 9/1/2022 at 2:59 PM, JonC said:

    I’m not sure how old the unit is and it’s usage but the magnetron does have a limited lifespan. I took my old furuno system into a marine electrics specialist (Mantsbrite) who charged me about £50 to confirm it was fucked🤣

    If it is older tech nobody supports it anymore and the default answer is an upgrade. 

    The display is marked as manufactured 2006 so could just be old age. Thanks

    Koden Radar Losing Definition

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi

    I have been asked about a problem with a Koden Radar. It is losing definition on all ranges. Larger targets like ships and large land masses can be seen but smaller targets just not seen. Unfortunately it has been removed from the vessel so testing a bit awkward. Really looking to see if anybody has come across this type of fault and whether it is fixable through straight forward replacement of scanner or components.

    Thanks

    Echosounder Frequencies

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi Sorry for the delay in responding. Sounder is a Koden CVS-126. It has replaced a Koden CVS-832. The transducer is the original from the 832. It is a three wire transducer and works fine at slow speeds but at higher speeds above 7kts the screen just blanks. Sorry I don't have more info. It's a friends boat and I haven't been able to get onboard yet.

    Cheers

    Honda BF40 Tilt/Trim Problem

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi It's been a while but finally got round to changing the motor on Honda BF40 tilt unit. Things didn't quite go to plan though. It was not possible to get the engine off the boat or even get it on a slip so the whole operation had to be done between tides. The original plan was to take the bolts out of the port side of the transom clamp. Wind back the port side nut on the tilt tube and slide the port side of the bracket along, enough to spread the transom brackets far enough to get the bottom pin out of the tilt unit. First problem was the tilt tube was extremely rusted. After a good bit of wire brushing and liberal application of WD40 the nut was eventually wound out to the end of the thread. The port bolts holding bracket to the outboard pod were removed. Forgot to say the boat is a Cheetah Cat with outboard pods fitted. The bottom bolt through the tilt unit was taken out and the transom bracket anode which is bolted across the bottom between both sides taken off. The pin holding the top of the tilt ram removed and the ram closed. Then it started to go wrong. The port side of the bracket could not be moved. We could not even get a screwdriver hammered in between the transom bracket and the outboard bracket on the tilt tube. Absolutely solid. No idea why this is a steel tube instead of stainless. Next attack was to put a large G-cramp on the transom bracket to the side of the outboard pod. The bracket was put on as high up as we could get it just below the hole in the bracket where the wires pass through. There is a web of reinforcing there, any lower and the bracket looks to slender to put pressure on. The intention was to tighten the cramp into place, get tension on with it and try to split the transom bracket from the outboard bracket with screwdriver then. This didn't happen. During the gentle taps on the screwdriver, no small chisel available. The G-cramp jumped off and we noticed the bracket jumped back into place. Next attack was to put the G-cramp back on and slowly take up tension on it. At the same time, wiggling the bottom of the tilt unit.  The cramp was increased in tiny increments and eventually it was wide enough to get the bottom of the unit out. There is a short tube inside the bottom that extends about 10mm into either side of the brackets which is why the brackets have to be spread to remove the unit. We carried on with the port side bracket but would have been better trying to move the starboard side bracket as the trim sensor is on the port side.

     

    Once out the whole unit was taken up to the shed and clamped upright in the vice. Four screws holding motor on taken out and motor pulled out and replaced. Slight encouragement was needed with screwdriver/chisel for the motor to lift once screws taken out. We did not drain the unit as we held it upright in vice but if not able to do like this the unit would need the oil drained out before taking motor off. O-ring greased, motor lined up and screwed down into place.

    Replacing unit relatively simple, connected up first to check if unit now working, which it was. So unit and lower tube through it with spacer slid into place and G-cramp very slowly eased making sure every thing was in line. Eventually remove clamp. Quick check and bracket mounting bolt holes still lined up after everything. So bottom bolt and top pin fitted and unit tried raised and lowered ok. Anode refitted, transom bolts refitted wiring tidied, tilt tube nuts tightened up and happy days. First time we tried the new motor it was quite noisy and slightly erratic. When we had it in place the oil fill cover was cracked and a small bit of oil and air let out. Next time tilt was tried it was quiet and fine.

    I have to say I do not recommend using this method. We were lucky the tilt tube only flexed and did not bend permanently. Our next move would probably have been to get engine off and build some kind of puller to either pull or press the tilt tube out after cutting it either side of the transom bracket and between the outboard bracket. Alternatively once cut put hacksaw blade through the inside and cut carefully to the brackets.

    Lesson learned, get somebody else to change tilt motor. Nah just kidding. Keeping the tilt tube oiled and greased. There are grease nipples on the outboard half of the bracket but not where the steel tube goes through the aluminum alloy transom bracket.

    Pictures are the Bottom bolt holding the bottom of the Tilt unit through the transom brackets. Top pin held with circlips holding the top of the ram to the outboard bracket. The G-Cramp doing it's stuff. The anode from below bolted across the transom bolts. Sorry not better and more pics but when things started to go pear shaped kinda got forgotten.

     

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    Honda BF40 Tilt/Trim Problem

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi

    I have a Honda BF40 with an intermittent tilt/trim problem. When using the tilt it sometimes stops. Never the same place. Leave around 30 seconds and try it again and it will work ok. Affects both up and down. Seems to be behaving like there is a current limit switch or something similar in the circuit. With the tilt motor disconnected full battery voltage is seen at the connector when tilt switch operated. Problem happens both on control unit and tilt switch on side of engine. 

    Any help with this much appreciated.

    Cheers

    Electrical Tools

    in Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance

    Posted

    2 hours ago, suzook12 said:

    Heat Shrink. An absolute must and not that expensive, can be bought ready cut in various sizes or as a length/roll to trim yourself. It comes in various different colours so you could even have a colour code system going on with the heat shrink. Remember to put the heat shrink on first!

    I love the adhesive filled heatshrink. But do check wiring correct first once heated only way back involves sidecutters!

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