suzook12

What books are best for cod then? The Compleat Angler? So long and thanks for all the fish? The Codfather??

I would be reluctant to use any expensive electronics while there is an over charging issue...... Especially as the extent of which is not really known at the moment.

I'd just like a bucket without a hole!!
 
A 100lb tope would be nice.... Seeing a few more species in the North Sea would be great...

That was a Suzuki DF140 reportedly, in part of the charging harness........
Have you checked with a good multimeter yet so we know exactly what we are dealing with?
It needs to be sorted sooner rather than later

Bit more done today, got a lot of grinding done, left it all just proud ready to finish off with sanding discs.....
Even the boy managed some cutting and grinding today as well.
No pics of progress as forgot camera! Duh....
Will be no progress now till Friday earliest, fishing tomorrow and the lad has got a rink hockey day Thurs.... Then again, day to myself.... Ya never know.
Once thats finished, will be getting the "bracing" out, full clean up inside, then start the transom.....

Sorry, thought you was in Aus, not Blighty 🤣

Sorry, thought you was in Aus, not Blighty 🤣

Jon, had a search around the net, found something that is a common occurance....

That connector seems to be either a common issue or a common result. Have a look for that connector, spliyt it and make sure all nice and clean and tight fit....... This is also a common occurance on Suzuki bikes (and Triumph for that matter). Many have switched to mosfet reg/recs and upgraded charge circuit wiring. If you could source a wiring diagram, should be able to break it down a bit further for you and give you some tests to perform.....

Jon, had a search around the net, found something that is a common occurance....

That connector seems to be either a common issue or a common result. Have a look for that connector, spliyt it and make sure all nice and clean and tight fit....... This is also a common occurance on Suzuki bikes (and Triumph for that matter). Many have switched to mosfet reg/recs and upgraded charge circuit wiring. If you could source a wiring diagram, should be able to break it down a bit further for you and give you some tests to perform.....

Jon, had a search around the net, found something that is a common occurance....

That connector seems to be either a common issue or a common result. Have a look for that connector, spliyt it and make sure all nice and clean and tight fit....... This is also a common occurance on Suzuki bikes (and Triumph for that matter). Many have switched to mosfet reg/recs and upgraded charge circuit wiring. If you could source a wiring diagram, should be able to break it down a bit further for you and give you some tests to perform.....

I'm guessing that the guy knew how bad this was, and the mate he had supposedly sold it to knew before demanding his money back. Now because I was buying it to break, I never really looked at it, so this, is decidely my fault in that respect. But I now have a good use for it so alls well etc.
I am however, genuinely glad that I never moved it on, because some complete novice may have bought it and paid the ultimate price with their and their family/friends lives.
Jon, I honestly don't think what I am seeing here is from the original build company. The hull looks good quality work compared to the floor etc. Maybe bought as a kit? Who knows?
Anyway, I would rather torch it than let it go as is.
Jon, no, the steel is over the back of the transom as well, and under the splash well it has steel spreader plates on the lower bolts. I haven't stuck the drill bit in yet, but am under no illusion that I really need to, it will be rotten, of that I'm sure. Having nothing to tie the transom in is also disconcerting, and with a heavier engine, this may have turned out like the one you mentioned. Needless to say, if this ever sees service again, these things will be corrected........

Great?? Would rather have a bowl of frosties, now they're GGGGRRRRRRRREEEEEAT
 

Don't think he mentioned 20lb cod??

I guess the 12 month MOT and even the buddy people recommend an annual inspection has more to do with it.
I was working with bearings that had a load of around 8 tonnes at any given time and have done millions of miles and been in service since the early 80's.
You can overgrease a bearing, its a known....
An overgreased bearing can cause a fire, its proven. Braked trailers have an even bigger risk of fire, as where does excess grease go if you blow the rear seal out?
Which is cheaper, bearings or a boat?
Like I said originally, you've got away with it for some reason............ BUT, I will take the word of SKF/TOYO/NSK etc over all others. City and Guilds are also on the same page as the bearing manufacturers. Having worked in an industry where I have come into contact with 3 vehicles that have had fires because of this and seen the aftermath,  two of the £70k trailers (petroleum tankers) were written off, ok, a boat trailer doesn't cost all that, but have you seen the way GRP burns?
Being dunked then short journeies and standing around in a damp environment is far more detrimental to bearings than the long trips you take

I guess the 12 month MOT and even the buddy people recommend an annual inspection has more to do with it.
I was working with bearings that had a load of around 8 tonnes at any given time and have done millions of miles and been in service since the early 80's.
You can overgrease a bearing, its a known....
An overgreased bearing can cause a fire, its proven. Braked trailers have an even bigger risk of fire, as where does excess grease go if you blow the rear seal out?
Which is cheaper, bearings or a boat?
Like I said originally, you've got away with it for some reason............ BUT, I will take the word of SKF/TOYO/NSK etc over all others. City and Guilds are also on the same page as the bearing manufacturers. Having worked in an industry where I have come into contact with 3 vehicles that have had fires because of this and seen the aftermath,  two of the £70k trailers (petroleum tankers) were written off, ok, a boat trailer doesn't cost all that, but have you seen the way GRP burns?
Being dunked then short journeies and standing around in a damp environment is far more detrimental to bearings than the long trips you take

Funnily enough, working in the rail industry, a bearing failure is a major failure, (remember the summit tunnel fire 1984?).
Having spent the day with the tech guy from SKF doing a bearing course, a common cause of failure is...... Too much grease!
So bearing buddies are not a good thing for lots or road miles. Jon, I know you do lots of miles from time to time, so you are clearly getting away with this, or you are changing bearings regular enough to not see any adverse effects.
I only mention this to highlight a potential cause of failure to be considered, so even tho you think you have it covered, you still need to check them.
 
When you look at a prepacked bearing its surprising how little grease there is in there...

Funnily enough, working in the rail industry, a bearing failure is a major failure, (remember the summit tunnel fire 1984?).
Having spent the day with the tech guy from SKF doing a bearing course, a common cause of failure is...... Too much grease!
So bearing buddies are not a good thing for lots or road miles. Jon, I know you do lots of miles from time to time, so you are clearly getting away with this, or you are changing bearings regular enough to not see any adverse effects.
I only mention this to highlight a potential cause of failure to be considered, so even tho you think you have it covered, you still need to check them.
 
When you look at a prepacked bearing its surprising how little grease there is in there...

Yup, as Ian says, get a decent meter on it first

Get a decent multimeter on them and see what the charge voltage really is. 
The Garmin head unit could easily be displaying 0.5v  out.
I have Simrad, Lowrance and Koden head units that all display voltage (Simrad is the most accurate) and they all show a different voltage to what my Fluke and Vicci multimeters show. 
I just use the head units voltage as a guide that my batteries are being charged.
 

The lures are made from a milky latex solution that is heated to pour. When hot, it goes clear and pigment can be added to give whatever colour of lure is required. It also stinks to high heaven and is an irritant to the lungs so I use a respirator to protect myself.
I'll do another post about pouring the lures themselves shortly. 

It's too wet for this year mate!! 🤣
Hasn't been too bad so far as it goes.....
Will help the boy learn about boats as well

I made these a while back but thought some of us on here might find it interesting. I needed a large, cheap SP lure body for use on a 6oz jig head for vertical fishing but couldn't find anything off the shelf that was suitable, so I thought I'd try pouring my own. Never done this before so it was a bit of an experiment.

The first stage was to make a mould I can pour into, so I needed to make a master of the lure.

Using Fimo I made the rough shape of the lure body, then baked it. After baking I used a Dremel with a coarse sanding drum, plus 320 grit wet & dry to get the final shape. After shaping I mixed up some fine filler paste to smooth out a few low spots before sanding smooth again. The finished master below.


Now I had the master, I needed to make the mould of the mould, so to speak. So first I bedded the master into a block of plasticine. This started by hollowing out an imprint of the master so that it fitted snugly half way into the plasticine.



I added the shape for the pouring funnel in plasticine too. I ended up opening it out once the mould was finished as it was too narrow to pour smoothly.


The next step was to build up the sides of the mould around the plasticine block. I used the kids's Duplo bricks as they were quick and easy to assemble. I also added some ball bearings from the kids' marble run toy to make locating lugs for the two halves of the mould. See that ball of plasticine at the top of the pic below? We'll come back to that....



At this point I also sealed up all the edges with small beads of plasticine to give a good seal. I then gave everything a light coat of vaseline to ensure the mould releases well once cured. Now ready for the first pour.

I worked out the volume I'd need and used an online converter to work out the total weight I'd need, then worked out the respective weights of RTV and catalyst. This is quite a large mould so I ended up needing needing nearly 400gr of silicone for each half.

After weighing out and mixing for a good 5 minutes the first pour went in.



After curing for 24 hours the first half was ready to pull.



Not bad at all. Pleased with the way the first half came out - fully cured, released well and no bubbles.

Next step was to prep the first half for the second pour. So I rebuilt the mould sides again, remade the second half of the pouring funnel and re-lubed everything with vaseline. The second pour went in - very few bubbles, which is good.



Mould fully cured and separated after curing.


Next step was a test pour.
First batch of lures from the new mould...



They all have an imperfection or two but as a first attempt I was pleased with them.
PS: remember that ball of plasticine I mentioned earlier? It went missing overnight after I had poured the second half of the mould - I originally put it down to having a semi-senior moment - did I put it away somewhere and forgot? It turned up eventually..... out of the back end of the dog . She must have snaffled it during the night when the first part of the mould was curing. Who knew that dogs like plasticine...??