JDP

I don't live in the year round hot regions of Australia, in fact Im right on the coast not too far from the mountains and snow fields. However we are into early summer now and have temps today already at 38'c and 46'c just inland off the coast. I must admit I like it hot but the downside is bushfires, which luckily after last season there isn't much left to burn. Tomorrow I will be heading into the mountains where the temps will be extreme due to the protection the mountains create from the wind. We will be chasing freshwater bass along a 10km private stretch of river with my daughter. We drop one car at a lower section and paddle down to from higher in the mountains. It takes around 10-12hrs to do depending on how many sections have dried up and how many fish my daughter hooks into. I don't fish on these as its all I can do to simply make it from start to finish with the kayak!!!

You have me confused too. Its only the very latest Mazda's that share some similarity with the Dmax, as as far as I was aware. Also not sure where you get the 2016 ceased to be made from ( I can't find anything to back this) Here's a review comparing both from 2018. All vehicles have a manufacturer plate with the year of build, with the one Im getting plated 2017 and shares the Ford apart from body panels. It would be good if the 2017 Mazda did have the same engine as they are far more straight forward to service and about half the price per service. https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-reviews/2018-isuzu-d-max-ls-t-vs-2018-mazda-bt-50-gt-comparison/ This is the newest edition (which Im not getting). https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/isuzu-d-max-and-mazda-bt-50-whats-the-difference-125295/ Here on car sales reviews Ive been back over dozens of reviews but find nothing to indicate a cease of Mazda producing them, maybe Im totally missing what you are on about, which is highly possible 3 days into headache.https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/mazda/bt-50/car-reviews/

Both the Ford and the Mazda come out of the same factory and have been untill now been mostly the same vehicle apart from body paneling. Mazda have only now dropped the Ford engine to use the Isuzu motor but these haven't yet reached our shores here. The ugly front end of the Mazda is normally replaced with a bull bar ( including the one I'm considering ). The guy I'm getting the car from has had two rangers in the past three years, both caught fire and were written off. Yes the Isuzu have a fantastic reputation here, they use the same engine as the commonly used light delivery trucks on the road. The engines have been tested to 4 million km and are the most commonly used council vehicles on the road because of their easy low maintenance. It's that reputation helps hold their resale value. My other option would be to buy the Mazda, hit it with the polisher and sell it on to get another Isuzu.

Ive never had one or felt the need for it here or the UK on a recreational boat. Not saying that I wouldn't use it if I had it though. When I worked on a trawler at night in the UK it was what we mostly used, over gps. Ive seen fog three times in the last 25 years over here, so not something we often see. If we were outside fishing and fog were to move in, there would be no way I would try and enter out harbour bar crossing untill it cleared, I would simply hold out in the lee of the Island offshore. Given the boating traffic and car ferries crossing the Solent, I dare say I would be getting radar if I was living back there now. The quality of them these days is good and the prices quite reasonable.

Currently have an Isuzu dmax which I really like, not new but a 2014. Its a manual and most vehicles here are auto, which are far nicer to drive on big drives. My mate is trading in his Mazda bt50 which is a 2018 and slightly bigger engine with more power and 100nm more torque as well as a 6 speed auto gearbox. The price I can get his vehicle for is pretty much what I can get for the dmax which is 4 years older and 110k more on the clock. My dmax has a full dual cab with a 1800x1800 tray and his has the space cab with a slightly longer tray. Any on here had any experience with the bt50.

True, not as if he's just joined. It really doesn't make sense, can't believe anyone would use the term vgc for that.

Wow 30kts from an 80 is good. My boat is the same length with a Suzuki 140 and a top speed of 30. Yours must be a fair amount lighter and far less v in the hull. Good luck in the sale.

In this day and age with phone cameras like they are Im surprised anyone would purchase a reel without a few photos. Yes he has done a dodgy deal but why didn't you ask for a photo. The real looks like it's spent part of its life on the sea floor, I have no reels with that degree of corrosion.

Here's my muppet of a daughter playing with a 5lb sinker on a variety of rods and yes we use 5 lb sinkers and 5 lb jigs.

I do the same, or simply throw a swag out where ever I can find a good spot. Some trips take a week of driving to get to where we are heading.

Think many low cost rods simply have a rating averaged on how they feel but couldn't actually be loaded to the rating. Many of the Jigging rods I use are actually tested ( every single one of them ) to withstand the dead lift loads rated at different angle of load testing. Example being the Jigging master rods I use which can certainly be loaded to loads most of use simply can't continually use ( things like 32kg of dead lift ). Even very light rods can be used on big fish without to much of an issue as long as the reel seat and guides are able to handle the forces. If you reduce the height angle any rod is used at on bigger fish then breaking isn't going to be a problem, this could even work on a rod designed for small fish of the rod is simply pointed directly at the fish so you are fighting off the reel so to speak. If I'm fishing for bream on a light rod and a 100kg stingray eats the bait, I don't end with a broken rod, I simply fight it differently. Some bent butt game rods I was looking at yesterday were tottaly different in action but the rating remained the same, so you can't simply assume each 24kg game rod will have the same action. There's also no regulations on how they are rated so the numbers really don't mean to much in my opinion.

I had years of messing about trying to use a low cost ellectric soldering tool with poor success. Recently went over to using a little dremel gas soldering tool which has attachments for hot knife rope cutting and a heat shrink attatchmeant and now my connections look very professional. This tool wasn't expensive and seems to run for a good amount of time on the easy to fill gas. There are plenty of UK YouTube videos that convinced me this was the tool to get. When I use heat shrink Ive been putting dialectic grease over my connection, when the heat shrink squeezes down on the wire the grease oozes out ( might not be the way to go but haven't had any problem ).

Ive only ever trailered boats over here. Monday I did what's considered a local run where I drove three hours down the coast. We launched at one spot then decided to tow to another 1 hr apart. That spot was blown out when we were hit with 30kts and a full on thunder lightning and rain storm. On the way home we tried to get out locally but again forced back off the water due to weather. Being able to tow boats around can be quite an advantage as long as you have good boat ramps, suitable tow vehicle and somewhere to store it all. Driving 2-3 hrs each way to get to a boat on a mooring would be pretty easy in my opinion in comparison with towing boats once they get up around 2 ton +. Simply means getting up a little earlier or maybe finding a good regular bed and breakfast in the area for an overnighter.

He's got to earn his own shoes now, one of the guitars was $4000, so we will be going without shoes too!!!!

I sold my wife's car Friday to downgrade to a smaller vehicle. The plan was to use some of the money to upgrade my 16yr olds gigging guitar with something a little better than what he's been using. Well the budget well and truly blew out with a new PA system and two guitars, one being a very sweet Taylor.

We are so out in front of you living in the ice age . We have this great new band called ABBA playing on the transistor.

Yes, she's also coming to the music shop (incase we need extra money!!). Its a days drive to the shop though. Its funny, many youngsters really like country songs here, which wasn't the case when I was young living in the UK.

Do you play gigs or is it for jamming at home ? Just sold my wife's car this morning, a large part from the sale is heading to the music shop to upgrade my youngest's gear.

By that comment do you mean you only expect to get 2000 hrs from your engines ? what make are they? The urchin boat I regularly drive has a three year old Yam 225 with over 4000hrs and performs like new and never had a single problem. One of our tv fishing show hosts have just fitted a big Yam with 3500 hrs on their project boat which is considered just run in https://www.boatsales.com.au/editorial/details/hook-line-and-sinker-pride-sea-raider-project-boat-part-1-126959/ Ive heard of some commercial guys putting 8000 hrs on their engines without any problems at all over here. Even more hours on the smaller powered outboards.

Just remember to trim up a little if backing into the wind.

Most are using the lithium batteries due to low weight and virtually double the run time of an equivalent wet battery. Lithium allows for depletion down to around 7% where a led battery is often less than half its amp hours before it becomes unusable.

Its become very popular to use the electric engines on the bow of boats even up around 7m in length. These will lock onto a gps exact mark which is great when wind and current constantly swing an anchored boat off the mark. Also staying right over the part of the wreck where the fish are holding can be very hit and miss on anchor. Personally I use my boat in and out of reverse holding it over a spot, depending on the wind and current this often means trimming the engine up to help reduce waves entering over the stern. I do this at the same time as fish two rods, so being very careful of a constant spinning prop takes a fair amount of concentration especially fishing alone, Im literally on the wheel all the time with one rod in hand and the other in a holder. As soon as I hook a fish I simply knock out of gear and drift off the wreck until Ive landed the fish, then move back in position again Some of my local wrecks are in around 140m of water so anchoring would mean using rope of around 400m, not something you can easily pinpoint. We also use this same technique targeting deeper water species where we need to keep the boat over a bait 750m under the boat along the continental shelf drop offs. Having an electronic gps aerial such as point 1 greatly helps in keeping exact positions. funny enough the Lowrance post 1 also works with my Garmin once its networked via nmea 2000.

Part of the difference is that they don't do perfect circles, they throw a different rotation pattern and eliminate swirls. They also have a slip or stall setting which eliminates to much power and heat to certain delicate paint surfaces. Theres also the trigger that can control the speed of the rotation and soft slow start up. As already mentioned, much has to do with comfort and vibration in the hand. When I looked into purchasing I asked a few car smash repair yards if they recommended the likes of rupes polishers etc and I didn't find any commercial user that actually used them as they claimed the Makita had several advantages over them, one being half the cost. The Makita has a setting where you can use it like the high end models allowing for slip or you can set it to not slip (which I tend to use most of the time). I only use the slip function on finishing polishes on our vehicles. Makita also gives a 3 year warranty over here on this model. Plenty of info on youtube explaining polishers better. For a boat wrap to be fitted the hull will need to be polished if its oxidised badly. I believe here 3M products get the better ratings. In regards to fitting while on a trailer, there are numerous videos on this. This is just on a small boat but there are videos doing it on far bigger boats.

I do around four 100hr oil changes per year and always do the gearbox oil on each (as recommended in the service schedule) but replace the impeller every 200hrs. Anodes on the powerhead are lasting an easy 600hrs on the Yam but not even half that on the Suzuki. External anodes were only replaced once over the two years (950hrs) of running the Yam and that was when I sold it. Like Sidfish mentions, it all comes down to how much the engine is used and if its kept on the water or not. Any outboard service mechanic over here will agree that engines that run most days and are run for long periods out last outboards that are simply used for a quick run out to the fishing grounds every other weekend. We can expect 6000-10000hrs out of a commercial used outboard to around 1500hrs out of a recreational one.

Im trying to get my hands on a g3 vision to try. We have such a huge coast line here that only certain amounts have been surveyed so not so great for my local area but Ive heard its very good for some of the areas I travel to fish. I also have Navionics platinum, the fact Garmin own both makes me think there won't be much in it in terms of what each have on offer.