JDP

No issues with power then when you have a couple of friends onboard.

27kts at 3600, what size motor ?

Today is Cyber Monday sales, the BBQ is still $899 though its now reduced form $1199. Now Im tempted .

Hopefully you've got the E10 out of it, its hydrophilic which attracts water and boats tend to be left long periods without use where there's more chance of water building up. Also keep a close eye on those powerhead anodes and replace them when needed. Ive always struggled to get 12 months use from my anodes on Suzuki's. Some people leave the anodes to 100hr services, however many people don't do 100hrs of engine running in a year so they need checking. Also the plugs normally need replacing at 100hrs or sooner quite often. 100 quid per hour is crazy, the most expensive here would be half that but I only pay around 25 per hour for a mobile marine mechanic to do the work at my home. Either he can supple the service kits or I can get them, he gets them far cheaper than I can, so I leave it all to him. His family used to own a Yamaha dealership and his brother owns one of the biggest Suzuki deanships in our state, so they both have the best reputations for mechanical work from servicing to complete rebuilds. I do get a reduced rate as I often skipper the mechanics commercial boat, which is another more lucrative business for him.

Anyone heading over, I still have an 80 outfit (the best one with a custom sword and big tuna rod). I also have a wide 50 tiagra without rod.

My 2014 suzuki 140 had plenty of other issues but not that one. Regular issues of not going above 3000rpm, gear bearings, power trim constant failings etc etc. Sold at 350hrs, since heard the new owner is having other issues with it. For the record it had had 8 annual services by Suzuki in those 350hrs.

Realistically the tech hasn't changed that much, simply small improvements which often take more user skill to actually use. Yes live-scope has improved but you really need flat conditions and be prepared to constantly stare at a screen most of the day. In saying that, being able to see a fish, tell what it is and how big it is, then put a lure right in front of it is pretty exciting to watch. The Garmin 8400 series that I use have now been around for quite a few years. I like the way I can integrate other items such as Garmin in reach, phones, Fusion stereo and electric motors etc. The best thing for me is the fact that our coast is so big that much of it isn't surveyed, meaning reveal, G3 vision and Navionics charts aren't always useful. Being able to build my own charts and colour code each 30cm change in depth allows me to build my own charts and quickly understand the underwater terrain. I can have endless custom made charts from shallow water river systems to deeper water beyond the continental shelf, much of which I do cursing at around 20kts. Most people though won't even know their electronics are able to do this. Quickdraw has been around for many years with most manufacturers, it would be interesting to know how many use it that have it, also how many share theirs or download other peoples. Ive downloaded quick draw charts from online for river systems Im heading to for the first time.

Yes thats what I would consider shallow, its not unit I go deeper than 300m that I consider using the deep drop electric reels. There are things I really like about the Simrad gear but its two of the 16in screens and one 12 that have put me off them a bit. It might of been fixed on the 16's but both the ones Ive used have been very temperamental in regards to the touch screens, as in not responding. Another issue which I've even had in the smaller ones is how they shut down so often when you start pushing boats hard into big seas. This might be a safety feature to protect the units but Ive had it happen in four different boats. I do like the sonar black screen option which really makes any fish big or small stand out well. The colour palettes on the garmins don't seem to offer black. Like you say, changing over can be costly but if people can see the gear you own working on the boat would help with re-selling it on. I do have two 24in Simrads I'm selfing for a friend. One is new in box and the other has some issues, hence the new one under warranty. However he decided to move away from Simrad to Garmin. Aus price is $12000 neg for the two which is half price on new. You mention the Raymarine which is the only unit I've not had any experience using, they just don't seem popular with the fishing community as much here, yes sailing boat users seem to like them. A good friend back in the UK uses high end Raymarine and has for quite sometime. He might actually be someone you are familiar with as you both have similar target species. He fishes from the IOW from his Lochin out of Bembridge. Most of our marine rescue vessels got a deal to change over to Raymarine but these are used pretty much as plotters only as we don't do underwater rescue so sonar isn't so important.

Its good though that someone was able to explain the differences. I don't think it really matters what brand people go with really as they all work well, simply go for more resolution if wanting more detail, many of the big wide screens are actually quite lacking in the top to bottom detail due to low res. In most UK depth waters seeing fish and terminal tackle should be quite achievable .

Wasn't it Garmin bought them out ? They own all the charts I believe but I don't bother searching into who owns what. There was some sort of legal dispute between the two regard sonar etc a few years ago but not sure if that ever got sorted.

After 30+years of lowrance and Simrad products (top of their lines) I moved over to Garmin simply because of poor reliability issues and poor customer service from the Navico group. I do still use some eveo 3 16 and 12 ins units on a few boats I skipper, however the one commercial boat I use is on its third replacement. Often issues occur after firmware updates which I must admit can be frustrating even on my Garmin's. My Gamins are the 8412 and 8410 which have glass touch screens, which if broken they become a throw away item, yes I broke one. My daughter also runs Garmin in her own boat and both of the game fishing boats she skippers also have full Garmin suites also, as do many of the game fishing boats do here these days. With any head unit you intend to find fish with, the more resolution the screen packs the better, especially in deeper water. Even though Ive dropped a fair amount of money into my full garmin outfits with the three transducers Im running, if I had to choose just one item I enjoy using the most, its the little Garmin 67i hand held. The 67i paid for itself in the first two trips commercialy fishing and the fact they are such a useful safety item makes mine the best gadget I own. To be fair all manufacturers produce some pretty good tec for fishinding, so you won't go wrong for the UK shallow water fishing with any of them. Transducers are a pretty important thing to get right also. Its like buying a $10,000 camera body and sticking a $50 lens on it, if you don't match with a decent transducer, what you see on the head unit can be let down. The biggest failures with sounders is the fact most people don't take the time to learn how to use them properly for the styles of fishing or work they use them for.

90's seem to be the lowest over here. Why would you want it, do you do lots of constant in out of gear all day ? I have both stainless and aluminium props for different styles of boating. With divers in the water, I often run the aluminium as I'm in and out of gear most of the day and the aluminium is far less clunky, in fact its quite smooth with that prop. Also when Im jigging or using soft plastics I use the alu as I use the engine much like with divers. My stainless is for long fast runs between a & b.

I did send a secondhand reel to someone from the other site who was hit with fee's pretty hard 2 yrs ago. He's also just dropped a couple of tld twin speeds on teaser poles.

Will get around to photographing them soon, a bit busy on various other projects at the moment.

I have the outfits in my possession now, a couple of 80w's two 50w, a Talica 50 and a Talica 25 on T curves or custom broadbill rods. Ive also looked into posting to the UK which probably isn't an option as its so high, not to mention the import duties you get hit with. I haven't been able to contact the people who are heading over around xmas, they aren't fishing people, just other family friends over to visit their kids who are here on working holidays. Prices aren't sorted yet as he's bringing more items for me to sell for him tomorrow. The 80w reels are pretty huge and I believe around the $1200 on the rods, with the rods being more expensive than the reels in some of these setups. The Talica 50 is a nice light outfit to handle, something I would of been interested in myself only Im not as silly as I used to be battling big fish for long periods!!!! Not sure if its worth you asking on the other site if there is anyone travelling here or if you know of anyone. A Tiagra 50w with a rod would set you back about 500 quid.

I will keep you in mind once I know exactly what he wants to sell as I also have some friends heading over around the new year from Hereford, so not far if they were able to take one back with them.

Why not Tiagra's ? Just been asked to sell some outfits the fella I often fish with but I believe its just the bigger Tiagra outfits at the moment (80lb class with 1400m of braid on them).

Well its Saturday morning and Im heading out, should be on the water by next Saturday. Big drive ahead, followed by a long run offshore, looking forward to some remote offshore living for a few weeks.

Leaving tomorrow or Saturday.

Thought I’d better test the electrics after fitting a lithium battery to the boat to run the electric motor. Ended up forgetting the remote for the minn kota so didn’t get to test that offshore. The dcdc charger worked fine from the starter battery but the interference on the new plotter sonar was very bad for some reason. Humpbacks, dolphins and yellowfin tuna were smashing the surface. Several boats were getting into the tuna, which I’ll leave to the young and foolish!!!!!! My son decided to join me been as it was just a quick run. We had 6 fish for 6 drops using one small soft plastic. Lost one fish to a little mako.

Well yes Im heading out to go fishing on the weekend but taking my time driving there as I have the wife with me on this trip. The drive is 4300km and then another 90km offshore to where I'm taking my boat. So starting this weekend arriving the following as some of the road is off-road tracks and my trailer isn't built to tough.

According to the spec on that engine, max rpm should be between 5000-6000. When I prop my boats I do so at the high end of that range, which none of those are doing. According every outboard mechanic Ive spoken with, propping them so the rpm is lower than that range is more harmful than higher ranges. I would be investigating your prop range more and try to find either a lower pitch or lower diameter to get the rpm up to 5500 at least. If there are no props in that range you could consider selling for something bigger. Even though your plate is level with the bottom of the boat, you may find raising one or two more holes will reduce drag and bring a few rpm. If you go to high and it starts sucking air into the prop, you can easily drop it back down one. A 30hp is a huge ask for a 16ft boat with the weights you mention. Under powering boats seem to be so common in the UK, I had it with every boat I ever bought there. It's not just the weight though as the more surface area, more drag. Different hulls obviously but the 90 honda on my 15ft was underpowered, hence going to a Yam f115. Have you tried the Yamaha prop selector ? https://www.yamahapropselector.com/propSelector/web/inner.html You seem to be using a larger diameter blade than options I came up with for that engine.

Heading away with my boat and 4x4 this week, just had it checked as its smoking a bit. Turns out an injector is stuffed but dont have time to get it fixed before I head off. Also have extreme bush fires ahead where Im driving to so at least my smoky dmax will fit in well. My trailer is not looking its best either but passed its recent road worth inspection but will be the last long range trip I will do with it.

Interesting watching you use the white rod upside down and left handed, you are going to fit in here perfectly, especially with that background music. Hope you can handle banter. Barbie (I now identify as).