GPSguru

Excellent news Geoff! 👍🏻

Hi Neil,thanks for your interest, She had the operation this morning - it only took about 20 minutes. Her tongue is sore, but paracetamol every 4 hours is helping that. It must have been a bit uncomfortable for  her as one person was pulling her tongue out as far as possible while the other went in with the lazer cutter. Joyce is milking it a bit today (I have to sort out the meals), but she is only eating soft food and drinking almost cold tea. I am very pleased and relieved to say that she is doing very well and the hospital said there is nothing to worry about. Geoff.
I

Hmm ............. sound like the Helm is made of something like nidaplast and glassed both sides .......... nidaplast here ....https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/category/nidaplast
 
Fixing is easy, but gel coating the surface is not so easy ........ depending on the size of the hole, put a backing board behind the helm, then put in a couple of layers of glass matt, then a piece of Nidaplast cut to the hole shape, then a layer or 2 of woven glass so it ends up about 1 - 2 mm below the surface ............. when dry, mix up some gel coat filler and fill the hole level, then cover with cling film to keep it level ............. then sand with 1000 - 2000 grit wet n dry and then polish .................
 
The last helm I fixed was full of holes. This was traditional glass coated ply .............. so I cut the holes into one big hole, glassed in a piece ply to fit and then covered the whole of the helm front panel with a piece of thick white perspex, glued on with PU adhesive, so I could then layout the helm the way I wanted .................
 
Edit : Wnter is not the best time for glassing, unless you can put some heat in the cabin  .................. ideally it needs to be 20C (ish)
 
 

Hi Andy, I would guess that your boat is polyester resin and not epoxy. Best to repair with polyester (also less expensive). T would also guess that the core material you refer to is Nidapalst (possibly 15mm not12mm to give your 25mm build thickness). PM or phone me if you wish for more details and the best way to go about it. What size holes, access 1 or 2 sides etc. Geoff,

I'm afraid I've had enough of the slamming in RIBs, burying them in waves, and getting airborne in the dark.  Long patrols on a fast RIB totally f....d my lower legs and knees, blood clots and all!  They're great for seakeeping and stupid fast work in calm water, but those days are behind me.  We really need a cabin here, just to get out of the weather and keep away from the inevitable 'wave over the bow'

The Pirate 21 centre console and the Ribcraft 585 were my final two choices when I got my boat in 2019 ................ in the end I went for ta new Ribcraft, but it could have gone either way .............. the Pirate is an excellent boat ........ heavy build & very deep Vee, but like all Deep Vee boats they need a lot of HP ........... I would be looking for 225 or 250 on a pirate 21 ................

Another slow jigging action is to make the jig tumble 3 or 4 times .............. this action keeps the jig roughly in the same position in the water column, great when the fish are tight over a wreck ...........
Drop down and wind up 'X' number of turns to where the fish are (on a wreck between 5 and 10) ............ point the rod parallel with the water and use a quick wrist flick upwards by about 30 degrees (not a lot) and then lower the rod to parallel ............ this has the effect of making the jig tumble , but also leaving it at the same position in the water column................
 
 

I added a link for you to look at ............. the videos are quite helpful

No, but it does the job better ...............
 
Yes, but I don't like mangles for slow jigging ................
No, it is done at all states of the tide, using a jig weight to suit ................ mine vary from 60g to 250g....................
 
OK ...........TBH, a 6 -12 with a soft (ish) tip will do the job quite well ...................
 
I use Hearty Rise Slow Jigging II rods ... the SJ632/230 & SJ632/340 (£300 each)  ................. https://www.heartyrise.cn/product/slow-jigging-2/?lang=en
The rods are very light and you can use them for hours without fatique .................
You need braid of about 20lb (no heavier) , the braid needs to be thin and good quality 8 strand (1 or 1.2PE)............. using Jig master braid I can quite happily work a 200g in 200ft on a mid spring .................
The easiest action to master, is .............. drop to the bottom, lift the rod to vertical, then lower the rod to pointing at the sea . This will leave coils of line on the surface as the jig flutters down, wind 2 turns and repeat ............... the take will be on the fluttering drop.
Slow jigs work due to their geometric shape ........... one side of the jig is heavier than the other, so they flutter in the water like a leaf falling for a tree .............
However, the jigs are expensive (£10 -£25) and it is easy to lose a few on a wreck ...................
It is additive, but also can be quite expensive .................
The best resource to learn is Japanese Anglers Secrets .........http://www.anglers-secrets.com/slow-pitch-jigging/
 

Another slow jigging action is to make the jig tumble 3 or 4 times .............. this action keeps the jig roughly in the same position in the water column, great when the fish are tight over a wreck ...........
Drop down and wind up 'X' number of turns to where the fish are (on a wreck between 5 and 10) ............ point the rod parallel with the water and use a quick wrist flick upwards by about 30 degrees (not a lot) and then lower the rod to parallel ............ this has the effect of making the jig tumble , but also leaving it at the same position in the water column................
 
 

I added a link for you to look at ............. the videos are quite helpful

Ah thank you! That was the site I was struggling to remember the name of when replying to Swampy. It's a great resource.
@jonnyswamp, the link that GPS posted has everything you need to know about slow jigging. 👍

So what's new? We're boat owners 😖🤣

I'm led to understand that to get the proper action for the lures to work properly a jigging rod is best, but they can be quite reasonable in cost. Take a look at the HTO Slizzle Jizzle rod - less than £70.
https://www.lureheaven.co.uk/spinning-lure-fishing-shop/HTO-Slizzle-Jizzle-6-6--230g-Rod-4085.html
Reels are less essential but they recommend narrow/light reels with big cranking power.
The proper technique involves lifting the rod and reel high above your head to allow the lure to flutter downwards for as long as possible as you let the rod tip drop down to the surface of the water, hence narrow, light reels to minimize weight.
More details here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.jigabite.co.uk/Slow%20Pitch%20Jigging%20Explained.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj1gKuhvezsAhUERxUIHYAhCVkQFjANegQIGBAB&usg=AOvVaw1RARZ3wFWwevQqyThESUEm

Which reminds me... we could probably do with a big red kiss option on the Reactions menu...

Not that old Luke. It was taken when I was 17, about 10 years ago! 

Do do doo 

Very nice Jon, but I think he means one of these from Breaksea Boats .................however, they do a couple of cabin styles .......................

 

Very nice Jon, but I think he means one of these from Breaksea Boats .................however, they do a couple of cabin styles .......................

 

I'd go for decent pollock anytime.  They just fight so bloody hard, and taste great to boot

Here you go ................. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/new-national-restrictions-from-5-november

You should have a really sharp knife, ideally one edge serrated and one edge razor sharp ............. this knife should be located near the transom just in case you pick up a pot rope in the prop .............. being anchored from the stern is a very quick way to sink a boat in any type of tide flow, and you certainly  don't want to be hunting around for a knife !
I keep one on the transom and another in my Lifejacket .......................
 

I have just looked at the published rules and the government have chosen NOT to make distance a legality, therefore you can travel a 'reasonable' distance to your boat.
However, it would seem that marinas should close in line with non - essential business, but I would also say that the operators should still allow access to your boat .
The AT, have made no mention of boat fishing, either for or against, so I guess it can be assumed that it is OK ..................

You should have a really sharp knife, ideally one edge serrated and one edge razor sharp ............. this knife should be located near the transom just in case you pick up a pot rope in the prop .............. being anchored from the stern is a very quick way to sink a boat in any type of tide flow, and you certainly  don't want to be hunting around for a knife !
I keep one on the transom and another in my Lifejacket .......................
 

You should have a really sharp knife, ideally one edge serrated and one edge razor sharp ............. this knife should be located near the transom just in case you pick up a pot rope in the prop .............. being anchored from the stern is a very quick way to sink a boat in any type of tide flow, and you certainly  don't want to be hunting around for a knife !
I keep one on the transom and another in my Lifejacket .......................