SiDfish

The Green or Luminous gummi makks (they look yellow) , baited with a side of mack works .................. we use the Red Gummi Makks for Pollock and never get Ling, just lot of decent Pollock and shed loads of Pout (spinners).
You need to rig your own gummi makks as the pre-rigged sets don't have heavy enough traces to avoid a bite off from the ling ..............
Funny incident last season .......... my wife is not keen on fishing Red Gills or shads , as it is too much like hard work, so she always fishes Red 6/0 Gummi makks on a string of three .............. it was fun watching her struggle with what she thought was a whopper ........... on the string was a 18lb Pollock, a 14lb Pollock, and a large pout ! ....... I told her it was extreme fluff chucking !

Shore fishing for tope in Wales by Clive Gammon.  Caught me lots of tope in my teens.  I'll give it away when I next find it. I'll post when I do, it's somewhere amongst my 100s of fish science/ecology/biology/management books, all crated at present

A mate, who used to fish for Ireland, swears by luminous green jellyworms/grubs above a mackerel bait and it certainly works for him.  I use hot orange gummi macks for the pollack and rarely get ling

Is that dog defending it's latest kill or just about to kill it?  Might be able to make 2021, just need to persuade mate to get his boat back on the water and ex to babysit mother for a week

A mate, who used to fish for Ireland, swears by luminous green jellyworms/grubs above a mackerel bait and it certainly works for him.  I use hot orange gummi macks for the pollack and rarely get ling

When my engines are run it’s for long periods.... 2 hours each way. 
 
Usage drops in the winter but still get started up and run. This year is exceptional due to COVID but usually used at least twice per month, even if it’s a blast in sheltered water. 
 
Anodes are by inspection only. I’m getting them done in next service (gulp) for piece of mind. At 1000 hours I’m close-ish to mid life so it’s just good practice. Then I can know I can head offshore and get home safely 🙂 
Just need weather to improve over Xmas so I can get out and about!
 
 

I do around four 100hr oil changes per year and always do the gearbox oil on each (as recommended in the service schedule) but replace the impeller every 200hrs. Anodes on the powerhead are lasting an easy 600hrs on the Yam but not even half that on the Suzuki. External anodes were only replaced once over the two years (950hrs) of running the Yam and that was when I sold it. 
Like Sidfish mentions, it all comes down to how much the engine is used and if its kept on the water or not. Any outboard service mechanic over here will agree that engines that run most days and are run for long periods out last outboards that are simply used for a quick run out to the fishing grounds every other weekend. We can expect 6000-10000hrs out of a commercial used outboard to around 1500hrs out of a recreational one.

Oil change every year....
impeller plugs and gear oil every 2 years or 200hours. 
 
Boat out in 2 weeks for full service so anodes, timing belts, oils, filters, fuel filters, plugs.
Thats on outboards that don’t use pushed hard...
Should be good for another 1000 hours... so about 10-15 years....

Other important considerations here are the frequency of changing oils and filters.  No excuse with outboards, but a necessary pain with inboards. I normally change at half recommended hours, maybe a few more.  Engines are usually the biggest investment in a boat yet they're maintained on a little as possible basis, not on what they need. I see lots of outboards that only get maintained every 100hrs, which can be years!  My mate recently brought a 70hp suzuki back from the dead.  It was on the back of a RIB and has done less than 30hrs, so has had no servicing whatsoever, since new in 2014, and sits in a marina 365 days a year!  It's all very well having the latest, highest spec, oil you can buy but the cooling system needs to be kept at optimum performance too.  Don't change a knackered impeller, change one that is still good.  A hot engine will quickly kill your oil and then the engine itself

Other important considerations here are the frequency of changing oils and filters.  No excuse with outboards, but a necessary pain with inboards. I normally change at half recommended hours, maybe a few more.  Engines are usually the biggest investment in a boat yet they're maintained on a little as possible basis, not on what they need. I see lots of outboards that only get maintained every 100hrs, which can be years!  My mate recently brought a 70hp suzuki back from the dead.  It was on the back of a RIB and has done less than 30hrs, so has had no servicing whatsoever, since new in 2014, and sits in a marina 365 days a year!  It's all very well having the latest, highest spec, oil you can buy but the cooling system needs to be kept at optimum performance too.  Don't change a knackered impeller, change one that is still good.  A hot engine will quickly kill your oil and then the engine itself

Yeah, but I think the point is there are many more that can be used that aren't FC-W registered, your guy there has even mentioned API SG which has been surpassed a long time ago.
Do people that live right beside the sea that may not use their cars that often have to use different oil? No.... And some oils mentioned actually have a quite high molybdenum content that makes it sticky as hell, and coats cams etc for a long time and prevents them rusting....
There are test houses out there that publish analysis results of various oils, that show many specialist oils (FC-W, JASO etc) are identical in every way as the common API spec oil from the same manufacturer.....
I've seen tests showing quicksilver gear oil against a similar common spec oil that was actually worse than the cheapy for anti corrosion.... Also consider there are many engines out there, inboard and outboard, that either were around or their base engine was around before FC-W even existed, yrt you are now expected to stump up extra for "special" oil.
What you have to understand is that oil is big business yet quite a cheap comodity. So any chance they have of making more money through branding and special purpose, they will take it.......
Is there special oil for a drag race engine? No there isnt, and these get a much harder life than an outboard ever will unless you into submerging a running engine!! Using a good quality oil seems far more important than many other factors......
For the doubters, the info is out there, just involves a bit of internet legwork, or don't.... I'm not advocating anyone use anything, as said earler, it's down to whatever they and their wallets are happy with......
 

I have a good fishing buddy who is an advisor on oils to different oil companies and motor industries around the world. When I asked him if I needed to stick with Yamaha's own oil or could I use a different manufacturer with the same spec, this was his reply. There's also a link in his response for compatible oils for other engine manufacturers.
Sorry about the way I copied and stuck this info together.
He has since helped me out in regards to some auto gearbox oil which the particular manufacturer was going to charge $1200 to replace, he pointed out the exact same oil from Mitsubishi would cost $300, simply same oil but different manufacturer label.
So these are all the oils my old Yamaha could use, not simply one that my local dealer had tried to push.
 

 

 

 

I once had a chat with an oil technician, who had some simple recommendations:
Unit construction bikes, fully synthetic as the gear box chops the mineral oil molecules to bits (hence usage) also high revs and intricate parts Pre-unit (seperate gearbox) mineral or semi-synthetic, often monograde for old engines (eg straight 30 in triumph twins) Inboards depend on original use and type of engine.  Mineral or semi synthetic for mercruiser v8 (car) and truck (eg volvo, sabre, perkins etc), but fully synthetic for modern, high revving such as Yanmar Outboards= semi synthetic for car based, fully synthetic for high revving purpose built (eg. verado).  Use fully synthetic for all if run at WOT often He also reckoned that the cheap and expensive oils were made in the same plants, so just put fully synthetic mid-price oil in everything!  There are always specialists of course, and firms like Silkolene, as suzook suggested, produce racing oils that give added protection if you give everything constant stick, which is why their oil is in my outboard, ex. bikes, but not car!

Yep, for me it's outboards only. 1. it's easier to free the prop if it gets a rope round it, and 2. it's easier (and dare I say cheaper?) to re-engine if ever the need arose.

Seems crazy that you need spare outdrives at home!  As much use as a chocolate teapot at sea. My little boat runs a four stroke outboard and auxhillary (no spares at home).  Will be looking at shaft drive/outboard options only.  Used to use twin two strokes, but they're out due to regular blown powerheads. We did give them some stick though!

My mates leg is rebuilt every winter, it's a volvo.  Last summer it spat it's gear linkage so it was a lifeboat tow home, then out of the water at the nearest boatyard.  This, very short after lockdown, year it spat the whole prop assembly (lifeboat) then refused to lock into reverse.  It also met with a mooring line.  We couldn't get the rope off at first as it was holding us off the rocks without enough room to anchor (lifeboat again!). The rope had gone into the gap between the prop and skeg, welded to the thrust washer.  The volvo leg only raises as far as the cavitation plate, so rope removal or prop changing at sea is dangerous, sat on the bathing platform, in the swell, unable to see what your trying to work on.  An auxhillary has been tried, but lifting a 40hp over the transom and trying to drop it over a bracket on the (slippery and swell washed)  bathing platform is just daft.  This is the first boat with a leg that I've spent much time on and, considering it's a proper engineer maintaining it, I just don't trust it.  Much rather have twin outboards, where you can easily get to any problems and have the constant re-assurance of a second engine if stuck.

My mates leg is rebuilt every winter, it's a volvo.  Last summer it spat it's gear linkage so it was a lifeboat tow home, then out of the water at the nearest boatyard.  This, very short after lockdown, year it spat the whole prop assembly (lifeboat) then refused to lock into reverse.  It also met with a mooring line.  We couldn't get the rope off at first as it was holding us off the rocks without enough room to anchor (lifeboat again!). The rope had gone into the gap between the prop and skeg, welded to the thrust washer.  The volvo leg only raises as far as the cavitation plate, so rope removal or prop changing at sea is dangerous, sat on the bathing platform, in the swell, unable to see what your trying to work on.  An auxhillary has been tried, but lifting a 40hp over the transom and trying to drop it over a bracket on the (slippery and swell washed)  bathing platform is just daft.  This is the first boat with a leg that I've spent much time on and, considering it's a proper engineer maintaining it, I just don't trust it.  Much rather have twin outboards, where you can easily get to any problems and have the constant re-assurance of a second engine if stuck.

These days i am very much a fine weather fisherman ....................no cabin for me, I don't go out if it looks like rain, or there is more than a 1m swell .............
Yes, push any boat hard enough, and they all slam, probably more so in RIB's because their sea keeping allows you to push them a lot harder ............ I have been airborne a few times in 1.5m sea's at 30knts, especially when you find a big  hole off the crest of a swell 🤣.................

This is different and has what your after.. 
https://www.justfishingboats.co.uk/motorboat/seastrike-19/3035
 

Or
 
https://www.justfishingboats.co.uk/motorboat/quicksilver-640-pilothouse/3173

Fishing The Ring Of Kerry by Kevin Brain.  Was self published and sold through a few local shops, at least ten yrs ago.  A wealth of information on marks, tides, tackle and bait!

I'd go for decent pollock anytime.  They just fight so bloody hard, and taste great to boot

I'm afraid I've had enough of the slamming in RIBs, burying them in waves, and getting airborne in the dark.  Long patrols on a fast RIB totally f....d my lower legs and knees, blood clots and all!  They're great for seakeeping and stupid fast work in calm water, but those days are behind me.  We really need a cabin here, just to get out of the weather and keep away from the inevitable 'wave over the bow'

I'm afraid I've had enough of the slamming in RIBs, burying them in waves, and getting airborne in the dark.  Long patrols on a fast RIB totally f....d my lower legs and knees, blood clots and all!  They're great for seakeeping and stupid fast work in calm water, but those days are behind me.  We really need a cabin here, just to get out of the weather and keep away from the inevitable 'wave over the bow'

The Pirate 21 was my front runner when I was looking for my next boat. As it happens I went for something that's basically a bigger version of the Pirate 21.
The Pirate is fast, trailerable and can take a lot of sea. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better boat for the money, and if you're selling two boats to buy one, there's a good chance you can get one for low £20k's. You might have to wait for the right boat to come along though. They didn't make a lot of them, and they don't come onto the market that often - I guess because their owners like to keep hold of them.