Gordmac

I believe a lot of antifouls aren't suitable for aluminium due to copper in them.

I suppose if you remember to shut the breather valve every time the engine is stopped you might be ok. I don't think I would risk it. Fuel tanks and gas lockers are externally vented for a reason.

My guess would be a bad earth. Remove and properly clean all the connections.

23 hours ago, Saintly Fish said:

@daio web Ive just lifted this from a post on another boating forum. Looks like you may have to replace...

 

Hi i have a South Pacific windlass which has developed a fault and is still under warranty. I have contacted South Pacific who are based in Australia who then gave me two contact addresses for their technical support in the U.K after telling me that the postage charge to Australia would be expensive. When i contacted these supposedly technical support teams they told me that they were not qualified to repair my windlass they were only distributors for South Pacific. After that failed i got back to South Pacific who then told me to go back to the original supplier who were Essex Boatyard has the windlass was supplied with the boat. They told me the same thing that they only supply the windlass and they do not repair them, failed again i then got backed to South Pacific to explain the failed situation that i was in. When i had a reply off South Pacific they told me that i had to send my windlass to Taiwan for repair i had a price for postage it was £206 with insurance for cover up to £500 for one way so i should expect the same price for the return journey. My experience with South Pacific was that they were not very helpful they have no technical support in the U.K, after i done every thing that they proposed they kept on moving the goalposts to prevent me from having the windlass repaired in the U.K although they carry a 3 year warranty after the first 12 months the supplier will wash their hands with you and tell you to send it to Taiwan (very expensive) so if there is anybody wanting to buy a windlass make sure it is made Europe and that they have a repair centre either in the U.K or Europe not the other side of the world where these idiots want you to send it. After my experience with South Pacific i would not entertain them they are very awkward people to deal with you know the saying buy cheap buy twice because buy the time you pay for postage it will nearly equal the price of a new windlass perhaps that is what South Pacific aims for you to buy a new windlass and then they do'nt have to repair the faulty windlass under warrenty. So best of luck getting you spare part.
 

Your contract is with the supplier not the maker. If it is still under warranty it is the responsibility of the supplier to honour the warranty not the maker.

23 hours ago, daio web said:

hi neil thanks for the reply the motor has just started going real slow i think it one of the south pacifics and parts are hard to find i will have a look at it on the weekend and take it off to see what i can do on a bench in the shed

If it has started going slowly you may have a problem with poor connections rather than the winch itself being faulty. Worth cleaning the connections and measuring the voltage when it is working.

The old 6cyl Fords in my last boat didn't have plugs, there was a button on the Simms pump which fed more fuel I believe. Some other engines had one heater in the inlet to heat the incoming air. 

I would ask if you are trying to treat the symptoms rather than the problem. If your engine isn't starting ok on one battery perhaps finding out why and sorting that is a better approach?

Seemed to me all the potential problems of an outdrive without the advantage of an inboard diesel! Is the air intake going to be far enough away from water in rough conditions?

Thanks, that was my thoughts. I had another look, both hose connections look dry and were tight. Couldn't see anything in particular but a small amount of oil below it after the engine was run.

Thanks, I was hoping someone else had done the legwork! I will have a look with the borescope, not easy to get eyes anywhere near it. Rubbing a finger round the hose connections makes me think they are ok. Concern is that it becomes a serious issue, ideally if it will last with a small leak until hibernation season and I can deal with it at my leisure, no steering at sea isn't appealing!

I will find out from Volvo if they do seals but I was looking to see if there was a non Volvo solution due to their excessive cost of everything! Hard to see and I don't want to go near it running but from where the fluid is looks like just behind the pulley.

Mine seems to have sprung a leak, anyone know if they can be overhauled or do I need to sell a kidney to pay Volvo for a new one?

22 hours ago, Andy135 said:

Sounds like it might be worth doing the calibration procedure again Gord. +/- 20 deg is too much variation. The Point-1 unit is accurate to 3 degrees, for example. What model is yours?

The autopilot was misbehaving but I found a bad connection which helped, not that it is very good at steering! I need to mess about with the gain to try and improve it but I don't mind actually steering myself. I have done the compass calibration twice with no improvement. It is a bit of a pain as it is hard to go so slowly in a circle. The equipment is Raymarine.

With the last boat I used my tablet if I was going anywhere, lining up the icon projection with where I wanted to go was handy for taking wind and tide into account. Would like to be able to do that with the Garmin device I have now.

Would alloy wheels last longer than steel ones?

3 hours ago, Andy135 said:

If boat orientation is important you'll need an electronic compass/GPS sensor (e.g. the Lowrance Point-1 GPS module). Regular units like Jon's don't actually have a way to know the orientation of the boat - they infer it from the GPS heading, but that only works when moving. For example, you could be drifting banks with the bow pointing across the tide, but without the compass module the plotter will show your boat pointing downtide.

That is all very well unless your electronic compass isn't spot on. Mine varies from accurate to about 20deg out depending on direction meaning the boat icon on the plotter often points a different direction to the one I am going in. I would much rather the icon direction was taken from the GPS direction which always agrees with the compass.

My boat club fees are £275 which includes mooring costs. We have to lay our own moorings which is an initial cost of roughly £1k, there will be replacement costs for bits but not often.

I probably spent about £1k in fuel and did best part of 500nm.

On 4/28/2022 at 11:06 AM, Saintly Fish said:

Suppose it depends on where you moor your boat. 

I believe it is very expensive to park a boat in the deep South but I would say it is misleading to suggest fuel is only a very small part of the cost. If you find that is the case maybe you should use your boat more!

Fuel is one of my biggest costs, not a very small proportion!

The thing about hard antifoul is that it doesn't erode away, presumably at some point you need to take it all off and start again? Done that once, don't want to do it again! Sailors use it on race boats as they can polish it for every race, don't think that is an issue for a displacement fishing boat.

Any eroding antifoul should be ok on displacement boats, for faster boats you need to check the maximum speed. Seajet claims 40kn but 25kn is more common.

20 hours ago, Saintly Fish said:

There is a long way to go before we hit that hurdle, but at least this keeps my interest. Now the question @Gordmac posed is eating away at my brain. 

Sorry about that!

No great expert but outdrives seem to be used on relatively quick planing boats whereas shafts are on slower or semi displacement boats with lower power outputs. If you are looking at say about20kn cruise tops is an outdrive the best option? Outdrives are more efficient however so should give a bit more speed for a given power. What sort of power does a similar sized say Rodman have? Other thing to consider, is it a low deadrise boat? That would give more speed for a given power at the expense of slamming in a sea.

Something I remember from the YBW discussions, I don't do remember well though! 

Interesting boat, Rodman like but without the Rodman price. Is 260hp enough for a boat that size?

Lot of skate, 225lb a big fish! 

Does that requirement not come in next year?